Learning About Dubai

Ejo #45 – Iftar Meal Handout

 

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote an ejo asking for people who were interested to contribute some money towards buying some of the less fortunate residents of Dubai a nice, hot, tasty meal to break the Ramadan fast. As well as David and me, FIFTEEN others stepped up and sent me money. Every single cent of that money went towards the food. Here’s how it all went down:

 

It was somewhat fitting that the day of the Iftar dinner handout was particularly hot and humid. After all, should I really expect to feel comfortable whilst handing out food to impoverished people on the street? I don’t think so. Unfortunately for me, I was also feeling a little bit under the weather from a pretty bad head cold. And to top it off, I’d only had two hours sleep the night before. We arrived home from a trip to Switzerland at 1.30am and I had to wake up at 3.45am to get to work. I can hear you: Trip to Switzerland?? And you want us to feel SORRY for you?? I guess not, but c’mon, two hours sleep is still only two hours sleep. Anyway, to sum it up, I was feeling pretty crappy and I would much rather have been at home in bed sipping on chamomile tea than driving around the back streets of Satwa trying to find a parking spot to set up the handout. But I had made a commitment, and nothing was going to stop me from honouring it.

 

The amazing Green Palace Restaurant that packages the meals for handouts at a SUPER reasonable price.  Thank you so much to the guys that help out with organising the food!!

The amazing Green Palace Restaurant that packages the meals for handouts at a SUPER reasonable price. Thank you so much to the guys that help out with organising the food!!

 

416 meals at 12dhs each comes to 4992dhs.  Thank you to each and every person who gave money towards this cause.

416 meals at 12dhs each comes to 4992dhs. Thank you to each and every person who gave money towards this cause.

 

When Roshni finally found a place to park and set up, men were already beginning to form an orderly line. Thanks to the wonderful and generous people who parted with their hard-earned cash to share a meal with someone in need, we had 416 packages to give away. And we had 416 men with hungry bellies and grateful eyes lining up, ready to receive their gifts. Each package contained dates (traditionally eaten to break the Ramadan fast), a hot chicken biryani and samosas, a tub of yoghurt, fruit juice, a crisp apple and a small dessert.

 

Getting in line.  Throughout the handout some cheeky men tried to cut in line but we sent them right to the back!  The whole thing ran like a very well oiled machine!

Getting in line. Throughout the handout some cheeky men tried to cut in line but we sent them right to the back! The whole thing ran like a very well oiled machine!

 

I started handing out the meals to the men, the sun beating down on all of us. Before long my jeans were sticking to my legs, sweat ran down my back and trickled down my face. But I didn’t care. I was just so happy to be doing what I was doing at that very moment. And the men were hot too, some of them soaked with perspiration. For me it was a temporary discomfort, for them it was probably something that they have to live with all day, every single day. I kept handing out packages. I tried to look each man in the eye as I handed him the bag containing his food. Not all of them looked back at me. Some just wanted to grab the meal and go. And that’s OK. I absolutely understand that. The ones that did make eye contact though, the ones that looked me in the eye and said “thank you” and allowed me to say “you’re welcome”, the ones that connected with me, brought me such an intense shot of sheer joy that I felt like I was going to burst with happiness. I was grinning from ear to ear.

 

Trying to balance all the boxes in the car with Mridul's help.

Trying to balance all the boxes in the car with Mridul’s help.

 

If you look closely you can see that the guy in the foreground has two different shoes on.  He probably just found them on the street.  That's the level of destitution of some of these men.  And it's heartbreaking.  Particularly in this supposedly RICH city.

If you look closely you can see that the guy in the foreground has two different shoes on. He probably just found them on the street. That’s the level of destitution of some of these men. And it’s heartbreaking. Particularly in this supposedly RICH city.

 

Look at that beautiful, happy face.

Look at that beautiful, happy face.

 

Sweaty, but happy!

Sweaty, but happy!

 

More happy customers.

More happy customers.

 

Smiles all round.  The good feelings were palpable!

Smiles all round. The good feelings were palpable!

 

Bon appetite!

Bon appetite!

 

Some of you might be aware (maybe because I keep going on about it????) that I’m not really loving living in Dubai right now. I don’t feel like I’m at home here. I haven’t found my “people” so I don’t feel like I belong. And this puts me in a perpetual state of lassitude. If I’m not sad, I’m feeling disconnected, switched off and isolated. Naturally, this is not a very nice way to live and I am hoping it’s just a temporary phase. But until it’s over, I’ve found that (short of actually getting on an aeroplane and getting the hell out of the country) not much alleviates this melancholia. But you know what does make things better? Getting involved in this kind of charity work, alongside one of the most generous, giving, empathetic, compassionate and hard working people I know – Roshni Raimalwala. I drove home from the handout absolutely floating on air. In fact, I was so emotional, so overwhelmed with how good I felt about what we’d done, that I actually had a little cry in the car on the way home. But it was a good cry. Tears of joy.

 

To give money to charity is wonderful. But to actually hand a person something that they need is something else altogether. To touch that person’s hand, and see the gratitude in their eyes and be able to elicit a smile from them is a mountain of a reward. It’s the pinnacle. It’s Everest! I wish that all of you who gave money for this handout could experience the same amazing feeling. I hope that by writing about it, it puts you there in my shoes for just a moment so that you can feel it for yourselves. Because you deserve to feel this good. You haven’t just handed over money, you’ve dipped into your humanity. You’ve reached out and changed someone’s life, even if just a tiny little bit.

 

So thank you. From me, from Roshni, Mrinal and Mridul, and from the 416 people that we helped to feed on the last day of Ramadan 2013.

 

Ejo #44 – Ramadan: It’s A Time For Giving

And so this is Ramadan. The time of year that our Muslim friends abstain from eating, drinking, chewing gum, smoking, having sex, dancing, singing and having bad thoughts during daylight hours. Wow man, it all sounds rather difficult. If you don’t think so, perhaps give it a go. Say, starting tomorrow. For a month!!!! Yeah, I thought so.

 

The reasons for fasting are numerous. It’s supposed to give you a greater understanding and appreciation of what less fortunate people experience every day of their lives. People for whom hunger and thirst are a constant struggle. So it fosters compassion. It is also a time for gratitude, for the blessings that have been bestowed upon you. Ramadan is all about showing restraint and self-control. Not just in fasting, but also in the way that you think about, and treat, other people. It’s a time to show good manners, compassion, patience and engage in a feeling of community. Ultimately though, Ramadan is meant to remove the distraction of the trappings of everyday life (sustenance, food, entertainment) in order to allow the faster to focus on communing with God. Ramadan is when a Muslim’s devotion to their faith is at its most concentrated and pure.

 

It is a really special time in a Muslim’s year, and even though it is something that must be very difficult to do, I have never heard a Muslim complain about having to fast. Everybody seems to do it with great grace.

 

An aspect of Ramadan that I’d like to talk about a little more is goodwill and charity. The prophet Mohammed (Peace Be Upon Him) once said, “A man’s wealth is never diminished by charity.” One of the five pillars of Islam is Zakat, the requirement to donate 2.5% of whatever you have earned that year to aid those in need. Zakat can be done at any time of the year, however it seems that most people tend to give during Ramadan. And I’d like to join in.

 

Let me tell you something. Living here is hard for me, for a number of reasons. One of those reasons is the major disparity between the “haves” and the “have-nots”. The divide is enormous. I think because we’ve lived in a veritable construction site for the last four and a half years, constantly exposed to the daily grind of labourers, it’s something that we can’t simply ignore. A lot of other people can. It’s not in their face, so they don’t worry about it. I do worry about it. I’ve written often in the past about how the plight of these guys cuts me to the bone. I’ve written about how I’ve tried, in my own very tiny way, to humanise them. To hand them a bottle of juice or some fruit once in a while. To wave hello and goodbye. To smile. It hasn’t been enough, but it’s something. Unfortunately, with the way the construction is constantly changing the landscape around our apartment building, we are no longer in constant contact with any particular labourers, so we are no longer able to develop any kind of bond or friendship or acquaintance. It’s more difficult to make a connection when you don’t see someone every day. Which is why it’s all the more important for me to try to do something special to help ease their lives, even briefly. Even if it’s just for one meal.

 

My friend Roshni, who used to work with Karama Kanteen is my biggest inspiration. She has devoted her life in Dubai to helping those that need it the most. The men that even the government has shamefully turned their backs on. Whenever I have some spare money, I call Roshni and we organise a hand out. She tells me what food and drinks to buy, and she uses her contacts at the labour camps to rally the men together.

 

Some of you might remember my Christmas Ejo of 2011, where I organised a collection from friends all around the world. Well, I think that Ramadan 2013 is a fantastic time to do it all over again. A lot of these unfortunate men are Muslim, and they must fast during the hottest time of year. And let me tell you, it has been HOT!

 

This is the hottest I've ever seen my car register.  Let's just say it was a VERY uncomfortable day - and I was outside for a total of about ten minutes.

This is the hottest I’ve ever seen my car register. Let’s just say it was a VERY uncomfortable day – and I was outside for a total of about ten minutes.

 

Try to imagine not eating or (even worse) not drinking water for 15 hours a day. Now imagine doing that while you have to work outside in these temperatures. And then, when the time came to break your fast with the Iftar meal (the all-important reward for sacrifices made during the day), all you could afford was a cup of rice and some water. It’s this that I want you to imagine, when I ask you to dig deep and find your compassion, empathy and generosity. My friend Roshni and I will organise a handout to give these guys something to look forward to for one Iftar. A nice cooked meal, some nutritious fruit, laban (yoghurt drink) or juice to wash it down with and maybe even a tasty sweet for dessert.

 

Last time 14 of us got together and raised 4500dhs and fed close to 450 men. I can’t begin to tell you how amazing it is to be a part of something like this, and I’m sure those of you who donated last time can attest to that. Let’s see if we can get even more people to donate this time. I am not asking for huge donations. If you can spare five bucks, that’s enough to feed someone. If you can spare more, fantastic! As before, every single cent goes towards the men – there are no “hidden costs” to this campaign, everything is done by volunteers. If you are interested, then please email me and we can organise a way for you to transfer the money. I know I have left it late, but please let me know in the next week or so if you would like to donate. And we can collectively bring a little bit of Iftar joy to a group of deserving men.

Ejo #43 – Things I Hate About Dubai #1 – SMOKING

So, my therapist would be horrified that I’m starting a series called Things I Hate About Dubai (sorry Zimmy, I’ll call you).  You know how it is, I’m supposed to focus on The Positive and try to get something good from every experience.  But there are some things that I simply cannot be positive about.  And you know what, perhaps it’s actually therapeutic to just vent about them.  Better out than in, they say.  I like to think that I’m not being negative, per se – I’m just reporting things the way they are (based on my own subjective experiences, observations and opinions, of course).

 

Yes, of course there are some things that I do like about living here.  For instance, you can get pretty well anything home delivered.  Feel like a burger at 2am?  No problem.  Craving cupcakes?  Pour yourself a glass of milk while you wait.  And you can even get your dry-cleaning picked up, cleaned and delivered back within the day.  The convenience factor is high.  So, that’s pretty good.  Also, petrol’s quite cheap, so no complaints there.  And, of course, the one thing that literally keeps me in Dubai is its close proximity to the rest of the world.  The travel opportunities here are incredible and, as you may have noticed, we take full advantage of them (though it’s pretty sad when the thing you like the most about the place you live, is being able to leave).

 

Conversely though, there are some things that I hate.  Not just things that bug me a little bit.  It’s normal to get bugged by stuff, I get that.  I’m talking about things that make my blood boil, or my head explode in disbelief.  Things that, after having to endure them for nearly five years, really just make me kind of miserable.

 

So, let’s begin:  Things I Hate About Dubai #1 – Smoking.

 

I’ve always had a problem with smoking, so it’s not a new thing.  I have dreadful childhood memories of being in the family car after an evening spent at my cousin’s (guess what: smoky) house, Mum and Dad both puffing away at cigarettes and the windows rolled up despite my desperate pleas to open them just a little.  But my parents’ conviction that the cold, outside air would give me a chill prevented them from doing so.  I love my parents, but I still shake my head at their logic.  What doesn’t make sense about this theory (of the origins of my aversion) is that both my sisters, who were also subjected to this, were not so much scarred by the experience as compelled to start smoking at early ages and are (despite several attempts to quit the habit) both still addicted.

 

So being a rabid non-smoker in a family of rabid smokers was not the most pleasant way to grow up.  I became quite the Cigarette Nazi, constantly complaining about how disgusting the habit was, spouting off statistics about cancer and emphysema at every strike of a match or flick of a lighter.  I would threaten my parents that when (WHEN, mind you) they were dying of lung cancer, I would not look after them (after all, why should I help them when they were knowingly doing it, despite all my hysterical warnings.  Right?).  I developed the kind of olfactory sensitivity reserved for perfumers and St. Bernards.  But instead of sniffing out sandalwood topnotes and snowbunnies lost in the woods, I could smell cigarettes at a hundred paces.  And instead of getting used to the smell of cigarette smoke, I became more intolerant and more repulsed by it.  I drove my family so crazy that they eventually relented and agreed to stop smoking in the house (woop de doo).  This was a huge personal victory for me, but only a tiny moot step towards getting them to quit.

 

So, you’re probably starting to get an idea of how much I really hate smoking.  I have no qualms admitting that I am extremely, vehemently, steadfastly, unwaveringly and unapologetically against it.  I remember dating a smoker for a couple of months when I was 19 and vowing afterwards that I would never, EVER again go out with someone who smoked.  And I stick to my promises.  Some people are not aware that when David and I met, he’d been a smoker for 20 years.  I never told him to quit smoking for me (that’s just not my stripe).  But I was very clear that I didn’t go out with smokers, no exceptions.  Luckily for me, he decided I was worth giving up the habit for.  Phew!

 

An interesting fact: I have never taken a single puff of a cigarette.  Not directly anyway.  I’ve probably second-hand smoked hundreds of packets – and the idea of that makes me feel rather sick.  I mean, what other gross habit exists in which not only the person with the habit is involved, but everyone around them has to participate too?  Not many.  Can you imagine the uproar of disgust if people started freely picking their noses in public.  And then made YOU eat it??  (And yes, to me, this analogy is on par with how gross passive smoking is.)  I think it’s fantastic that so many cities around the world have taken steps to ban smoking in enclosed public spaces (and, in some cases, even in open public spaces – how progressive).  No-one is suggesting that smoking be banned altogether (though you wouldn’t see me at the protest rally, if it was).  It’s just really great to be able to go out, have a nice dinner and a drink, and socialise with friends without coming home smelling like I’ve spent the last few hours rolling around a stinky ashtray.

 

Alas, Dubai is not one of those forward thinking cities.  Smoking is allowed in many restaurants and in nearly all the bars and clubs.  We recently went out to dinner with David’s workmates and just about every single person at the table was smoking, almost constantly.  Apart from being generally pretty awful, to me this is just weird.  I like David’s workmates very much, but I am not used to going out with people who smoke.  Not a single one of my friends in Melbourne is a smoker.  And I don’t know if that’s just a coincidence, or if it was a sub-conscious act on my part to not make friends with smokers.  I just know it has never been an issue.  In Dubai, as a non-smoker, I am the pariah.  I’m the annoying one who doesn’t want to go out because I don’t want to eat in a haze of fug.  And, on the rare occasion that I do accept an invitation to go out, I’m the one who wants to leave early.  I never meet friends for a nice glass of wine after work, because when I do, I am subjected to plumes of cigarette smoke: getting in my eyes, in my lungs, in my hair and in my clothes.  The result is that I just don’t go out very much.  I like to think that I used to be a fun, social person before I moved here.  I don’t feel that way anymore.  I’m not sure what percentage of blame I can attribute to the smoking laws for that.  Is it 100%?  75%?  I don’t know.  But it’s a big part.

 

A recent concession from the local government in their ongoing “quest” to solve the second-hand smoke problem was to ban pregnant women and children under 18 from establishments that allowed indoor smoking.  Good work Dubai government.  There’s some forward thinking for you.  So, I’m not holding my breath (literally or figuratively) for things to change around here.  It’s one of the reasons I live for our holidays.  I get to go out and socialise and have fun and drink and be merry and meet people in a smoke-free environment.  And I really enjoy that – all the more so because it just doesn’t happen in the city I’ve chosen to live.

 

Maybe this “problem” of mine is not such a big deal to some people.  And (not that I give a shit, but) maybe sometimes my militant anti-smoking philosophy makes me unpopular.  Maybe you think I’m over-reacting.  But maybe you haven’t had to watch a loved one die of lung cancer (and I’m not going for the sympathy angle here, I’m just going for the truth).  My father dying of lung cancer was the single worst thing that has ever happened in my life.  And while some might dispute the role of smoking in the risk of developing this disease, I think the two are almost undeniably linked.  Remember back when I was a kid, threatening to not look after my parents “when” they got lung cancer?  Can you imagine how I felt when years later, my prediction actually came true?  On top of the grief and loss, the immense guilt I experienced only strengthened my resolve that smoking is a terrible, stupid thing to do that just doesn’t make any sense.  (Oh, and if you’re offended by me calling you stupid for smoking, why don’t you try to convince me that it’s not.  Also, just imagine how it must make my mother feel?  Sorry Mum.)

 

So yeah, maybe the memory of Dad at my 32nd birthday, laboriously hawking up thick, black phlegm over his slice of cake, a month before he died, has something to do with how much against it I am.  Maybe it’s the fear that the same thing will happen to the rest of my family and I’ll be the only one left (great, at least I’ll have the strength of my convictions to keep me company).  Maybe, maybe, maybe.  What I do know is that for as long as the smoking laws in this city remain unchanged, I’ll be staying home.  What can I do?  It’s just something that I hate about Dubai.