Photographs

Ejo #55 – Dangerous Doug Goes To War

It’s been a while since I’ve brought you a story from the vaults of Dangerous Doug’s life. I like to reward my loyal readers from time to time so I arranged to have a chat to Doug and asked him to tell me about his army days. Oh yes, the Rhodesian Army saw fit to entrust our beloved friend with weaponry!

At the time, all able-bodied young men were required to complete 12 months national service when they turned 18. The nation was at war (Google it: Rhodesian Bush War) and the army needed all the help it could get to fight the black nationalists wreaking havoc and destruction throughout the country. Two weeks after his eighteenth birthday, Doug reported for service with just the clothes on his back and a small suitcase of personal belongings. He weighed 57kgs.

Here's Doug when he first started his army training at the tender age of 18.  Adorable, right?

Here’s Doug when he first started his army training at the tender age of 18. Adorable, right?

As you can imagine, army life was quite different to anything Doug had ever experienced before. The training was gruelling. Counter insurgency training, weapons training, classical warfare training. Late nights, early mornings, surprise midnight drills, ill-fitting equipment, trench digging. All the while, carrying 20kg backpacks. As well as that, life was a lot more regimented, and the smallest infraction could earn a young private a “confined to barracks” charge, known as CB. This entailed countless drills, push-ups, chin-ups and other exhausting physical tasks meted out by the notoriously cruel MPs of the barracks. A CB charge was to be avoided at all costs.

But being in the army wasn’t all drudgery. During his training, Doug got to play with a lot of pretty amazing weapons. Imagine being 18 years old and having the chance to use mortars, hand grenades, rocket propelled grenades, phosphorous grenades (that’s chemical warfare, people!) MAG machine guns, 7.62mm FN rifles, Claymore mines and other assorted armaments in a non-combat environment.

Just three weeks into his training, Doug’s group had a mortar firing exercise in a remote field. Each young man was given the chance to fire a 20mm mortar shell from a hand held mortar. The aim was to hit a tree, about 1km away and whoever got closest would win four beers. Sounds like fun to me. As each of the other 29 privates had their turn, the area around the tree became scorched with all the explosions. It was, according to Doug, pretty damn cool. None of the guys was getting within 100 metres of the tree though. Studying each mortar as it flew up into the sky, topped out and then plummeted towards the ground he says he became fixated with the trajectories of the missiles coming down nose first. He became mesmerised by the image of each of those 29 mortars as they headed back to earth before exploding in a fireball. When, at last it was his turn Doug was certain that he was going to be the guy to obliterate the tree. The beers, and everlasting glory, would be his. He picked up his mortar, the last one, and was just about to release it into the tube, when SLAM!!!!!!! He was rugby tackled to the ground by the Sergeant.

This is what a handheld mortar looks like.

This is what a handheld mortar looks like.

Indignant he got up and dusted himself off, only to be barraged by a string of expletives from his commanding officer, “You BEEP BEEP BEEPING BEEP. You could have BEEP BEEP BEEPING killed us all. You’re a BEEPING BEEP BEEP, whose mother BEEP BEEPS. What the BEEP is wrong with you?” Doug looked at the mortar, still in his hand, and with a sense of slowly dawning dread, realised that he’d been just about to place the mortar into the tube head down. If he hadn’t been tackled, the mortar would have exploded, instantly killing everyone. Sheepishly he apologised. He felt really bad. Bad that he didn’t have a chance to prove how good a shot he was. When he actually asked if he was still allowed to have his turn (oh yes, he asked), you can just imagine the Sergeant’s response. Suffice to say, we’ll never know if Doug’s aim would have won him those beers.

Things kind of got back on track for Doug after this incident and he completed some pretty rough training to prepare him for war. One of the exercises the troops had to regularly participate in was night march training. This was basically a 10 mile hike in the wilderness of Zimbabwe in the middle of the night, usually in pitch black darkness. The men would trek, in single file along rough, unchartered terrain with nothing to guide them but their senses.

Now as you know, “Dangerous Doug” earned that moniker for getting into all sorts of dangerous situations (and somehow surviving – thank goodness, right??). But DD is not his only nickname. Over the years he’s been known as many things, including Ugly Dougly (children can be so cruel), Hamburger, Volcano Face and Universal Gigolo (Doug made me say that last one). One of the nicknames he collected during his army days was “Pothole”. Somehow, during every single night time march he was on, even though the men hiked single file and Doug was always in the middle, he managed to fall into potholes that the others had missed. Every. Single. Time. After a while, the commanding officer had the bright idea to put Doug at the head of the line. After all, with the pothole magnet up front, at least the other men had a chance of avoiding them. Doug would stumble or fall, shout out “pothole” and the rest of the men would each, in turn, say “pothole”, “pothole” down the line.

On one fateful night, four months into his army training, the men were called up for a midnight march. Doug led them into the night. Two miles into the hike he fell down a four foot hole. But he was OK. They managed to pull him out, and the march continued. Thirty second later, he fell again. This time over a ten foot rocky precipice. He was not OK. He had hurt his right leg pretty badly and couldn’t walk on it. The march was cancelled and the troop headed back to camp, with Doug carried home between two of his buddies. Back at the barracks he went straight to bed (which wasn’t really a bed but a sleeping bag in the dirt) and dreamt whatever it is that Doug dreams about (I don’t really even want to start imagining – but I have a feeling the words “Universal Gigolo” might provide a hint).

In the morning, it came to the attention of the company’s CO, Major Makovich, that the evening’s march had ended prematurely, and when he’d found out that the reason was Doug’s little accident he wanted to have a chat to him. From the comfort of his deluxe director’s chair by his quarters, Major Makovich shouted out for Doug to get up and present himself. Doug’s leg had swollen up pretty bad but an order was an order and he managed to get up and face the Major, approximately 20 metres away from him. The Major demanded that Doug walk the distance and stand in front of him. I kid you not when I tell you that the 20 metre walk took Doug a full 20 minutes. I asked him to swear that he was telling the truth here because it sounds implausible. But he promises that it’s true. Each step on his hurt leg was excruciating and agonising pain, like a sharp, burning blade. And the major made him walk it, sipping his nice hot coffee the whole time. When Doug got to within 2 metres, Major Makovich finally had enough and told him to stop. He told him to turn around and present himself to hospital. He also told him that if there was nothing wrong with his leg, he was going to lay a big fat CB charge on him.

Doug was taken to hospital where his leg was x-rayed. Lo and behold, his bone had completely snapped in two below the knee. The doctor, who happened to be a colonel, asked Doug, “Did someone make you walk on this broken leg?” Doug didn’t hesitate. He shook his head, no. He was in a cast for six weeks.

During our chat, which lasted several shifts, Doug interspersed these amusing stories with other, more solemn, memories of his time in the army and serving his country in the war. My colleague has a history that has never even been hinted at in the five years I’ve known him. It is only through asking him to talk about the calamities in his life that I discovered this other facet to him. A Doug that, as a young man, patrolled the backwaters and villages of a country torn apart by terrorism trying to restore order against the insurgents. I discovered a Doug that was part of what Time magazine described as, “Man for man, the Rhodesian army ranks among the world’s finest fighting units”. A Doug that has seen the worst of mankind (the stories he told me about the war would make you lose faith in humanity), but also the best. I can’t help but look at him with fresh eyes now. With newfound respect. My friend, Doug.

Here's our man at 21 whilst serving in the war.  Check out the biceps.  And the hair, check out the hair (I can't vouch for the biceps, but the hair is LONG gone!!!).

Here’s our man at 21 whilst serving in the war. Check out the biceps. And the hair, check out the hair (I can’t vouch for the biceps, but the hair is LONG gone!!!).

Ejo #54 – Adine: A Beautiful Place To Stay In The Tuscan Countryside

There is a place, deep in the Tuscan countryside, that surreptitiously stole a little piece of my heart 12 years ago. It’s a piece I don’t mind having lost, because I am compelled time and time again to return to the scene of the “crime”, leaving behind a little bit more on each visit. It has been said that home is where the heart is. And I believe this to be true.

Image

The hills in Tuscany really do roll!!!

To wit, I am a 100% Greek-blooded, born-and-bred Australian, living in Dubai for the last several years. I am sad to say that I have never felt (or in the case of Australia, no longer feel) at home in any of these places. Don’t get me wrong – I love Australia and I will always have a home there (thanks Mum), and I’m sure that if I was to move back, the feeling of being at home would return. But I’ve increasingly started to feel like a tourist whenever I visit my own home town. And Greece? Forget about it – I’ve never belonged there. It’s nice to visit, but that’s about it. So, what about Dubai? Well, my heart simply doesn’t think very much of the place, so even after more than 5½ years it still doesn’t feel like home.

So why do I stay in this place that my heart holds in such contempt? One reason, and one reason only. It’s the travel. It’s the opportunity to explore this magnificent planet of ours and discover places in the world that feel like home, not because I live there or because it’s where my family are from, but because they resonate with me. Home becomes the place which embraces me as I am and the place I actually feel I belong.

In 2012 we travelled 100,032 kilometres in the air. In 2013 it was 106,097km. And 2014 is shaping up to be a 104,365km kind of year. You would think that with all those airmiles we would have travelled to some pretty amazing places. And you would be right. Absolutely spot on! I give you full permission to hate on me for a few moments. I mean, shit, I would. But, I would like to point out that amazing places don’t necessarily equate to places you could spend the rest of your life. Of all the incredible cities, towns, and one horse villages we’ve been to, only a couple have fulfilled that criteria for me. Of course, it is no secret that I am helplessly in the grip of a torrid, passionate love affair with Amsterdam. Enough said about Amsterdam. Today I am going to introduce you to my other happy place. A place that envelopes me with love whenever I visit.

Image

Avenues like this are a mainstay of the Tuscan countryside. What’s not to love.

Let me tell you about Adine. Adine is a tiny hamlet nestled in the rolling hills of Chianti, about 25km north of the beautiful city of Siena. Consisting of less than a dozen properties, it has been standing watch over picturesque vineyards and fertile olive groves since the 11th century. Next time you think about updating your iPhone to the latest model, have a think about how old that really is. These houses made from rough-hewn stone have been standing their ground since the Middle Ages. Literally.

Image

The chapel at Adine. Did people really congregate here 1000 years ago? Yes, they did.

I first stayed at Adine in 2002, with an ex-boyfriend and some friends in a villa apartment owned by the lovely Simonetta Palazio. I admit that I fell in love with Simonetta the moment I saw her. And I swear it wasn’t because she’d baked me the most incredible apple cake as a welcome gift (well, maybe it had a little bit to do with that). With a halo of white hair surrounding soft eyes and a gentle smile, she is easy to love. She is “simpatico”. After a week spent in Il Ghiro (one of the two villa apartments owned by Simonetta), we became firm friends. It’s been a friendship that has lasted great swathes of time and distance, to develop into something akin to family. Perhaps Simo is the reason I feel so at home when I am in Adine.

Image

The kitchen in Il Ghiro. The sink is the original (yep, from the 11th century). Mindboggling. The flan is blueberry and yummy (compliments of Simonetta!!). I can always count on a delicious welcome gift from my friend’s kitchen. Delizioso!!!

A little bit of history. Simonetta bought her villa in the hamlet of Adine 20 years ago. When she first moved in there was no heating, and she and her youngest daughter Manu would sleep in front of the fireplace wrapped in blankets, with woolen hats on their heads to keep warm. After separating from her husband (whom she’d been with for 38 years), Simonetta fell into depression and loneliness. She decided to rent out one of the rooms in her home for some company. Though the idea was spawned from necessity (some company, and a little extra money) she loved it. She enjoyed meeting people, and made friends with many of her guests (including me).

Image

One of the most incredible spots on earth – Simonetta’s terrace. Overlooking Tuscan landscape, there is nowhere better to contemplate life, drink a glass of red wine and unwind. Bliss. Simonetta started off serving breakfast to her guests on the terrazza – her guests are welcome to sit out there whenever they like.

 

Image

Sit down with a book and a bold red wine. What better way to spend an afternoon.

Simonetta, apart from being a loving and hospitable host is also a very talented cook. She took this skill and expanded her homestay experience to include cooking lessons. She was actually so good at it that for many years she was part of a group that travelled the world giving cooking classes (Max, from Red Hill Estate in Victoria, Australia is a fan and a friend). She has given that up now but still takes bookings for her two beautiful apartments and will also give cooking lessons if you ask her nicely. I have such fond memories of being invited to watch as she has whipped up some fresh pasta, or a red pepper marmalade or delicious dessert. And I’ve been luckier still to have feasted with her and her family on special occasions. Oh my god, the feasting. My mouth waters at the memories. Her specialties are focaccia, trenette al pesto and hazelnut ice-cream (my absolute favourite!!!).

Image

Il Ghiro’s patio overlooking a courtyard and Adine’s chapel. Perfect for breakfast under the Tuscan sun.

 

Image

Buon Appetito. I NEVER cook on holiday. Except when I am in Tuscany. Who needs room service anyway!!!

 

Image

Our effort at one of our favourite dishes: spaghetti con funghi, aglio e olio. Not too shabby!!!

So here’s the thing about staying at Adine. It is a beautiful place, but there are a few things it’s not. It’s not a 5 star hotel. It’s not an expansive, lavishly furnished villa with a swimming pool and daily cleaning service. There is no big screen TV, no air-conditioning, no room service and no gym. So if you’re looking for that kind of experience, perhaps Adine is not for you.

So what is it? It’s genuine, it’s rustic and it’s charming. It’s eating simple foods, the freshness and quality of which burst into song on the plate. It’s history and warm friendship and long walks in unspoiled nature. It’s a heart-expanding sun, made golden orb, settling in for the night over velvety hills. It’s a peace so deep, it actually takes a couple of days to get used to; to unplug. But when you do, the reward is profound. It’s looking outward toward the gorgeous countryside, and finding something special within yourself. It’s wine (we are in Chianti after all). It’s fireflies on a late-summer evening. It’s the cleanest air you’ve ever breathed (unless you’ve been to Antarctica). It is heaven on earth. And if you’d like to experience this little piece of paradise (before Simonetta sells up and moves to Rome to spend more time with her grandson) go to Adine now. Tell Simonetta I sent you. She will surely welcome you with open arms.

Image

Pici is the thick, hand-rolled regional pasta of Siena. I’d have to say it’s my favourite pasta in the world.

 

Image

The walled city of Siena is a labrynthine, cobble-stoned wonderland. Here is the Piazza del Campo at twilight. Magical.

 

Image

A week’s worth of imbibing. Somehow we never suffered a hangover.

 

Image

Simonetta’s gorgeous garden.

 

Image

Siena has some of the best gelati I have ever eaten. My favourite is nocciola!!!!

 

Image

This was taken in 2006 when I visited Adine solo. I was so taken with the countryside I had to stop the car and take a photo.

 

Image

Simo and her beautiful daughter Manu. And one of my favourite puppies on earth, the sadly departed Lyuba.

 

Image

When I see this sign, I know I am moments away from home.

Note: In writing this ejo, I’ve been reminiscing about my previous visits to Adine and poring over old photos.  It has ignited the need to “go home”, as it’s been over three years since I’ve seen my friend Simonetta and spent time in her house.   Yesterday, I booked my ticket for a quick five day visit next month.  That’s how powerful the pull of Adine is.  If you don’t believe me, why don’t you go and see for yourself.  For more photos, please click HERE!

 

Adine – A Portrait

My friend Simonetta’s Tuscan guesthouse, Adine.  These beautiful photos were taken by very talented local photographer, Martino Balestreri.  Whilst they certainly capture the essence of how lovely Adine is, it is no substitute for going to visit yourself.  You can contact me about staying at Adine (and I will put you onto Simonetta), or you can contact Simonetta directly through the Adine Facebook page or the website.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image