Travel

Ejo #63 – Drunk In….. Tokyo (Golden Gai)

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DRUNK IN….. TOKYO
GOLDEN GAI
Golden Gai is a small city block (I make it out about 60m x 80m) in Shinjuku, Tokyo that should have been condemned and knocked down for being a fire hazard about 80 years ago. Within that area there are about 200 tiny little bars each with a capacity of only a handful of people. You might recognise the name Golden Gai from the baby sardine ramen joint Nagi I mentioned eaerlier but it’s so much more than that. After dark it’s like a Bermuda Triangle of miniscule dens of iniquity and mischief. David and I went one night with the intention of doing a Golden Gai Crawl. Let me tell you how that went. We got dropped off by the taxi and entered the first bar we came to. Hours later we stumbled out of that bar, lost each other and ended up at home at 3.30am and 4am respectively. I don’t even know how I got there. Golden Gai is dangerous. DANGEROUSLY FUN!!!!!

Apparently not all the bars welcome foreigners (a clue to look out for is that if there’s a sign outside in English, you’re welcome). The place we went to (I have no idea WHAT the hell it was called) was run by a sophisticated older lady who coolly welcomed us into her little warren of a bar and served us glass after glass of nihonshu. After the first couple of hours she warmed to us and towards the end we were best friends. And I think I may have sexually assaulted the adorable waitress in a pink cashmere sweater. There was lots of hugging and giggling. I think.

Anyway, Golden Gai has to be seen to be believed. Go after 7pm.

This photo is the only evidence I have that we were ever at Golden Gai. And I can't remember taking it.

This photo is the only evidence I have that we were ever at Golden Gai. And I can’t remember taking it.

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Ejo #63 – Drunk In….. Tokyo (Bars Tram & Trench)

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DRUNK IN….. TOKYO
BAR TRAM & BAR TRENCH
These two incredible bars are run by the Small Axe group, and if you are serious about your cocktails, you will most definitely want to make a stop at either (or both) bars. We, of course, in the name of research, went to both. The focus in both places is on absinthe (and they have an incredible range of the spirit) but the geniuses behind the bar (and they are a true pleasure to watch when concocting their masterpieces) are cocktail experts across the board. Try one of their complex, but balanced, monthly recommendations, like we did. And then try one of their signature absinthe cocktails, like we did. If we had been spending more time in Tokyo I would have tried their entire drink menu. Best thing? They’re within walking distance of each other and serve different drinks.

Bar Tram does double duty during the day as a serious coffee shop. I have never seen drip coffee being made with such intense concentration and focus – one drop at a time. It’s lovely to watch someone so passionate about his art – and then even better to reap the reward by drinking the result. Highly recommended.

Shhhhh!! The perfect coffee takes crazy concentration.

Shhhhh!! The perfect coffee takes crazy concentration.

Bar Tram - absinthe in the background

Bar Tram – absinthe in the background

David had this beetroot based cocktail in a pewter mug sprinkled with gold leaf stars. AMAZE!!!!!

David had this beetroot based cocktail in a pewter mug sprinkled with gold leaf stars. AMAZE!!!!!

Mine was one of the most delicious cocktails I've ever had. But guess what? I was drunk (in Tokyo) so I can't remember what was in it. Raspberries and pink peppercorn by the look of it.

Mine was one of the most delicious cocktails I’ve ever had. But guess what? I was drunk (in Tokyo) so I can’t remember what was in it. Raspberries and pink peppercorn by the look of it.

They hand chip the ice with the flick of a knife into an emerald cut shape. It's all in the details.

They hand chip the ice with the flick of a knife into an emerald cut shape. It’s all in the details.

When we got to Bar Trench they were full so we sat outside in the drizzle. They brought us out warm towels, took our drink order and served us on a nearby bench. Hospitality in Japan is second to none.

When we got to Bar Trench they were full so we sat outside in the drizzle. They brought us out warm towels, took our drink order and served us on a nearby bench. Hospitality in Japan is second to none.

BAR TRAM INFO:
1-7-13 Ebisunishi Shibuya Tokyo
(Address in Japanese: 渋谷区恵比寿西1-7-13−2F)
+81 3 5489 5514
Coffee: 1000-1900 (Closed Mondays)
Bar: 1900-0200 (later on weekends)

 
 
BAR TRENCH INFO:
1-5-8 Ebisunishi Shibuya Tokyo
(Address in Japanese: 渋谷区恵比寿西1-5-8)
+81 3 3780 5291
Open 1900-0200 (Closed Sundays)

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Ejo #63 – Drunk In….. Tokyo (Nagi Golden Gai)

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DRUNK IN….. TOKYO
NAGI GOLDEN GAI
So, more ramen. But different ramen. The Golden Gai branch of Nagi Ramen is a second-storey, ten-seat restaurant about the size of your bathroom. But before you even get upstairs to eat your amazing ramen you have to wait in line (between 15-45 minutes) in a narrow, dirty alley with all the other people keen to get their taste of the unique broth made with baby sardines and pork bones and cooked for hours and hours and hours (so a 45 minute wait is peanuts in comparison). TOTALLY. WORTH. IT. Luckily for you Nagi Golden Gai is open 24 hours.

All good things take time.

All good things take time.

Right behind David are the stairs. This place is miniscule - and always full.

Right behind David are the stairs. This place is miniscule – and always full.

Thank you little baby sardines for sacrificing your lives so that we can eat this sensational bowl of ramen.

Thank you little baby sardines for sacrificing your lives so that we can eat this sensational bowl of ramen.

INFO:
1-1-10, Kabukicho,Shinjuku-ku
ラーメン凪 新宿ゴールデン街店
+81 3 3205 1925
Open 24 hours – no reservations

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