Ejo #165 – Dad

My father died 20 years ago today.  His death fucked me up pretty good.  Actually, his illness didn’t do a bad job of fucking me up either.  Watching him deteriorate from a strong and vital man into a shell of a human being, someone I barely recognised, sent me plummeting into the deepest and darkest depression I’ve ever experienced.  The ten months of his illness were agonising, and the months afterwards were very much worse. 

Until my father died, work was a source of great comfort for me.  A place I could escape the gnawing torment of his decline.  A place of relief from the anguish.  I was working as a junior air traffic controller at Moorabbin, which is a busy airport full of training aircraft.  It’s chaos.  Delving into work, my focus was laser sharp and blinkered, all the better to not allow any thoughts of my father to seep into my consciousness.  I was depressed, yes, but I was functional.  In stark contrast, after Dad died, I became catatonic.  I couldn’t eat, I couldn’t sleep, I couldn’t do anything.  And I certainly couldn’t work. 

I was off work for three months, and spent all that time at our family home with my Mum and sisters.  I slept in the living room on a foam mattress which I made up every night, and packed away every morning.  Sleep was elusive; my head filled with swirling memories and jagged thoughts that were so painful I would just sob into my pillow for hours.  I was eventually prescribed sweet, merciful Temazepam to help with the debilitating insomnia, which was a life buoy thrown to me when I was drowning in a tempestuous sea of grief.  My waking hours were spent staring into space.  Aimlessly shuffling from room to room.  I was completely numb and I don’t remember much from that time.  I lost a lot of weight.  I rarely left the house.  I cut myself off from all my friends.  My father’s death knocked me out.  It was a king-hit that took me more than 18 months to emerge from.    

My mother never resurfaced from her loss.  When Dad died, a very large part of her did as well.  She never stopped loving him with all her heart, and she stubbornly refused to live a full life without him.  To my Mum, Kon’s ashes embodied his soul, and until the day she died she kept a lit candle beside his urn on the mantelpiece in the living room.  She said goodbye to him when she left the house, and hello when she returned.  Goodnight when she went to bed, and good morning when she woke up.  It was her way of staying connected to him, even though he was gone.  It was her way of keeping him alive, and that gave her comfort. 

My mother’s death hit me very differently.  Firstly, even though I knew she was sick, I didn’t know that she was at death’s door, so I was totally unprepared.  Secondly, she was my mother, not my father.  And thirdly, after Dad died, I still had my Mum around for another 15 years.  But when she died too, suddenly they were both gone and I experienced not just the loss of a very important person in my life, but the loss of my roots, my anchor, my family unit, and my very foundation.  And the loss was profound.  I didn’t get depressed, like when Dad died.  Instead I succumbed to an extreme and overpowering sadness, the depth of which I could never have imagined possible.  The sadness that I felt was not normal.  My whole life leading up to this event, sadness was a room on the ground floor.  Maybe when things got really bad, it went down to the basement.  But suddenly, when my Mum died, I realised that it was not the lowest, or the worst, that I could feel.  I learned that there were twenty cavernous levels below the earth that could fill up and overflow with my sadness.  It’s like when people say you don’t know how much love you can truly feel until you have a baby.  Well, maybe you don’t know how much sadness you can feel until you lose your mother. 

I’ve spent the last four and a half years since my mother’s death fiercely grieving her.  I miss her deeply and still sometimes cry myself to sleep when it just hits me in the chest that she’s gone and that she’s never coming back.  I think of her every single day.  I see her picture on my bedroom wall every single day.  And every single day something reminds me of her, and I’ll say emphatically, “I love my Mum”.  Because I really fucking do.    

Conversely, in the last four and a half years, I have hardly thought about my Dad at all.  Deplorably, I haven’t had any room in my heart for him.  And I feel so incredibly guilty that the all-consuming grief I feel for Mum has completely supplanted the grief that I was holding for my Dad.  And of course, intellectually and emotionally, I know (I know!) that I still love my father and I know that I miss him and I know that I grieve for him.  And of course it’s not a competition about who I love or miss the most.  But I am grateful that this, twentieth anniversary of his passing, is an opportunity for me to once again focus on my Dad, and to once again make some room for him in my heart where he belongs. 

My parents were very different people, and had very different parenting styles.  My Mum was all heart, loving, open and warm.  My Dad was more outgoing and filled the room with his personality… which could sometimes be a lot.  He had been raised in a household where the man was in charge, the man was the be-all and end-all, the man wore the pants and the man had the last word.  My Dad’s gentle nature prevented him from becoming the kind of authoritarian parent that his own father was, but still he could be pretty strict and uncompromising, especially when my sisters and I were teens.  I think that when his three daughters started growing up, it triggered an internal clash between his easy-going personality and the stern parental conditioning he’d grown up with.  And this started causing a rift in our family.  Being the first born child, being the one for whom rebellion simply wasn’t an option, I accepted all the rules.  I was the good girl.  And I’m grateful to both of my sisters, for being significantly more ballsy than I was and smashing down the barriers that had been put around us.  I’m grateful because, even though it caused a great deal of heartbreak and strife and tension in the house at the time, it was the catalyst for our father to change.  As a parent, and as a man. 

I have to give my Dad props for being able to shed generations of toxic masculinity, and to look inwards and realise that he no longer had to be so overprotective and controlling of his daughters.  He understood that if he didn’t make changes within himself, he was at risk of pushing us away, or even losing us completely.  And he changed.  He just did it.  He softened, he became more accepting, and he became more affectionate and open and loving.  He became more himself.  It was a truly remarkable transformation.  Over the years, my relationship to my Dad evolved from worship, to reverence, to fear, to shame, to disrespect, to ambivalence.  And then I went back, and I got to know him as a person, as a human being.  And I started loving him again.  And finally, at the end, after all that, we were friends.  I’m so grateful that we had the opportunity to complete that circle while he was still alive. 

I have so many beautiful memories of my extravagant and irrepressible father, whose extraordinary zest for life left an impression on everyone who knew him.  Even though it may seem trivial, a memory that I hold very dearly is of how gentle my Dad was when he put my hair up in a ponytail when I was a kid.  As opposed to my Mum’s confident and efficient method of whisking my hair up and quickly twisting the hair-tie around the ponytail, my entire head fit into my Dad’s enormous hands as he tenderly stroked my hair, trying so hard to not pull even a single one as he lovingly gathered it up on top of my head.  And I knew, I just knew, even then, as a five, or six, or seven year old, that it was a special moment between us.  I cherished that moment when I was a kid.  And I cherish it now. 

One family story that became legend over the years demonstrates how meticulous and fastidious Dad was about certain things.  He always took such great pride in the way that he looked, and in particular the clothes that he wore.  His sisters, Dimitra and Sophia, recently recalled the story for me, setting the scene at a large family dinner.  Dad, Mum, aunts and uncles and friends of the family were all there, gathered around the table.  Someone was carving and serving a large roast chicken, and a few droplets of gravy splashed onto my Dad’s shirt.  As was his wont, he became very upset.  Everyone there was accustomed to witnessing Dad’s over-the-top reactions whenever he got even a minor stain on his clothes.  But this time, apparently, he became so melodramatic about it that my Aunt Sophia (who was up to here with Dad’s histrionics) lost her patience, and lost the plot.  Wild-eyed, she pushed her chair back, walked around the table to where my Dad was sitting, grabbed the chicken drumstick off his plate and furiously started rubbing it all over his shirt, yelling, “It’s just a fucking stain, Kon!!!”  As you can imagine, everyone was so shocked at the unexpected insanity of the moment, they all burst into laughter.  Everyone, that is, except my Dad, who sat frozen like a statue, staring straight ahead with a stony look on his face. 

Hello police, I’m dressed to kill and I’d like to report a murder.

Thinking back, I remember lots of stories from my Dad’s youth.  Like the time a tree he was standing right next to was struck by lightning.  Knocked out by the impact, my father lost his sight and couldn’t see for hours afterwards.  When his eyesight returned, he went back to the tree, which had been cleaved in two, and found a stunning gemstone in the cradle of the split trunk.  The stone was a brilliant azure blue, and I remember seeing it and holding it and being in awe of it when I was a kid.  My Dad treasured that gemstone, and I wish with all my heart that I knew where it was. 

My father’s family were so poor that his parents couldn’t afford to feed all six of their children, so when my Dad was 17 years old, a deal was struck to foster him out to some neighbours, a rich family that lived just down the road.  Until then, my father had never even worn a pair of shoes.  So the pride that he took in his clothes later on in life makes total sense to me.  The couple that “adopted” my Dad were in their sixties and didn’t have any children, but they promised to secure him financially and to love him like their own.  The first few months went smoothly, and Dad helped them on their farm and generally did whatever was needed around the house.  He even used to drive the couple to church every week.  In a village where most families couldn’t even afford a bicycle, this was a big deal. 

After a while though, the couple started talking about weddings, suggesting that Kon marry their niece, but he wasn’t interested.  So the old guy started imposing a curfew, saying that my Dad (who was 19 years old by that time) had to be home by 10pm on Saturdays.  Obviously this was total bullshit and Kon justifiably stayed out until the wee hours of the morning that first weekend.  He did the same the weekend after.  And on the third weekend in a row that he came home late, he found the door to the house locked.  And that was it, that was the end of the deal.  That Sunday morning, his younger brothers and sisters woke up to find Kon sleeping on the floor next to their beds, and the whole family rejoiced that he was finally back where he belonged. 

Beloved siblings (Back row: Roula, Kon & Christos and Front row: Stavros, Sophia & Dimitra)

Kon Stathopoulos was a singularly brilliant man.  He pulled himself out of abject poverty in Greece, and created a whole new life for himself in Australia.  He completely rewrote his destiny.  My Dad was a dreamer and a big thinker!  Sure, he drove trucks, and then later taxis, but my Dad was too big to be a taxi driver forever.  He worked some shitty jobs to make ends meet, but in his spare time he was an enthusiastic entrepreneur.  Bow ties, light up yo-yos, silver screens for cars, decorative ceramic tiles.  He tried a whole bunch of innovative business ideas before finally starting his own company, Plastercraft Contractors. 

A one-man show, my Dad took solid plastering to the next level, turning it into an artform.  Within just a couple of years he had built such a great reputation in the industry that he was asked to singlehandedly restore the exterior of a large church in Ballarat.  He was also commissioned to create a new plaster cast emblem for the Red Eagle Hotel, in Albert Park, the very same bar where Kylie Minogue had her 21st birthday party!!!  He then landed the extremely exclusive job of re-designing and building the beautiful and iconic fountain at Government House in Victoria.  Every year on 26th January, Government House opens its doors to the public, and thousands of people get a chance to peek inside the stately home and to roam through the gardens.  There are also monthly tours of the 11 hectare garden which anyone can book, so why not go along on one of these tours and see for yourselves the amazing sculptural achievement created by my very own father. 

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The current phase.

Later on, due to the success of his business Dad expanded into larger scale projects like apartment building construction sites.  He often invited me to join him and earn a little bit of extra cash, and I once hit the jackpot, making $400 in one week being an elevator girl, asking big burly construction workers wearing hardhats, “Which floor?” for eight hours a day.  It was here that I first saw the man that my father had to be when he wasn’t with his family.  For the first time, I heard him casually throwing around words like, “fair dinkum”, “bloke”, “smoko”, and I even heard him say “fuck” a few times.  My brain exploded.  As a 21 year old I’d never heard my Dad swear at home, yet here he was cursing with such ease and regularity.  It was surprising, but also kind of nice, to discover this other side of Dad that I’d never seen before.  It added yet another dimension to him. 

My Dad left his mark on some pretty important buildings, but his passion project was building a holiday home for our family in Ancient Korinthos, in Greece.  The construction took him several years, and was (mostly) finished just before he was diagnosed with lung cancer in 2002.  His dream was for the five of us to holiday there, as a family.  But tragically, he never lived to see that happen.  The house is still there, an empty monument to one man’s vision. 

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The dream. With Greece’s only Hill’s Hoist.

I have a cute little blue urn on my bedside table, which holds a little bit of my Mum’s ashes and a little bit of my Dad’s ashes all mixed together.  I thought that having my parents close to me when I sleep would provide me with some sense of closeness to them, like my Mum used to get from having Dad’s ashes near to her.  But I was wrong.  I get nothing from it, except an academic understanding that my Mum and Dad’s cremated remains are next to me when I’m in bed.  I have no response to it at all, emotionally.  Sometimes I’ll shake the urn, and listen to their bone fragments rattling inside.  I know what’s in there, I know that it’s them, but even so, there’s no connection to who they were when they were alive.  I wish there was. 

Hello Mum and Dad, it’s me, Chryss.

My Dad really shaped the first 32 years of my life.  His first job in Melbourne was in the inner-city suburb of Carlton.  So naturally my father was a Bluebagger.  Therefore I am a Bluebagger.  Dad inspired my love of tennis, and I played competitively for years, even aspiring to turn professional when I was sixteen.  He taught me all the tricks of how to play a solid game of backgammon.  When I was 15, he taught me how to drive a manual in a rusty old Land Rover on a hilly farm with no roads.  And once I’d mastered that, he took me to an abandoned industrial estate in Springvale to learn how to drive his crappy work van. The one with the dodgy clutch and the sticky column shift.  And once I could drive that, I could drive anything.  I’m pretty sure that the reason I love to throw epic parties (and I really do love to throw epic parties) is because I inherited my Dad’s passion for entertaining, and showing people a good time, and living large.  It’s funny, what gets passed down from father to child.  Being a sports fan can be one of those things.  Wanting things to be just right, might be another.  A house in Greece, another still.  But maybe a zest for life and knowing how to dream big are the most important things a man can pass on to his daughter. Thanks Dad.

Ejo #164 – The Extraordinary People I Know: Mear

Some of you might remember the opus I wrote on NFTs about a year ago.  Even though the heat on NFTs has cooled a little, I’m still involved in the scene, especially on Twitter which has a very strong and vibrant NFT community.  My feed is often filled with gorgeous artworks, posted by artists trying to get their name out there.  About ten months ago I was scrolling Twitter and came across an absolutely stunning piece by a Chinese artist called Mear.  I commented on it, we chatted for a while and got to know each other a little bit, and I decided to buy the NFT.  In fact, I fell in love with the entire series and bought all six pieces.  It feels very special to have supported Mear as she was starting out in the NFT world, and over the months we have come to know each other quite well.  One of the reasons I love NFTs as much as I do is that as a collector you can discover art that you never would have otherwise been exposed to.  And for Mear, as an artist, the converse is also true.  Would she have sold the entire collection of her Swaying series to an Australian woman working as an air traffic controller in Dubai if it wasn’t for NFTs?  I highly doubt it.  I feel very honoured that Mear took time out from her very busy schedule as a full time artist, teacher and prospective PhD student to answer a few questions about her art and about herself.  Mear’s English is way better than my Mandarin so we conducted our interview in English, with a little help from Baidu and Google translate.  I do hope you enjoy our conversation as much as we did. 

Thank you so much Mear, for taking the time to talk to me about NFTs and art, and in particular your specialty, Chinese painting.  I absolutely treasure the six NFTs in my collection that comprise the Swaying series.  Can you tell me the inspiration for the series, what each one of them means and why you chose these individual names: Imagine, Disconnected, Vague, Praise, Flourish and Indigo?  
The Swaying series is based on the practice of using heavy colour to create small paintings.  I was inspired by some wildflowers on the side of the road.  It was a rainy day, and the wildflowers were swaying, east and west, causing the water on the petals to produce a magical refraction effect.  I imagined the flowers floating in the buoyant sea, swaying in the water and creating beautiful ripples.  So, I began to draw these pictures from my imagination. 

The Swaying series is a dynamic description of petals floating in water.  The Chinese word for each of the paintings is very simple, but very clear.  Imagine is the first painting in the series, and represents the fluctuation of my creative thoughts.  When I was a child I remember watching a cartoon called Bug Division, and a scene from that impressed me very deeply.  So I used rattan yellow and a little gold to try to recreate the gold and black space from the TV show. 

Imagine

Disconnected describes the camellia at night, a bit like smoky moonlight.  Vague uses the purple tone that I like, but purple is very difficult to show, so I added some clam powder to foil to make it stronger.  Praise depicts the summer forest, with a variety of different colours of leaves.  I added the rock colour, to make it look even more gorgeous and thick. 

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Indigo depicts a four-leaf clover floating in the lake in winter.  The lake is usually blue, and the water is very deep, but clear.  And Flourish depicts a variety of colourful flowers blooming in spring.  It represents the Chinese people walking in the flower filled street during the Spring Festival.  Very rich and beautiful, it indicates strong vitality.

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You hand painted each one using ink and brush on paper, and digitally added the Chinese characters in the background.  What do the characters say?  Do they have a special meaning?  
The calligraphy pictures in the background are high-definition pictures I downloaded from an app called China Treasure Museum, which are all very good works by famous masters before the Qing Dynasty. 

For example, as the background in Imagine, I chose a short section from Zhu Dao’s Seven Frames of the Interior Classic from the Qing Dynasty, which is a work mainly about the preservation of health.  And in Disconnected, I chose a paragraph from the epitaph of Zhang Sizhong of the Liao Dynasty.  The epitaph is written for the dead, recording the names, titles and life stories of the deceased.  These pieces were chosen as the backgrounds because the calligraphy is really very good, and worthy of our observation and study.

I’d love to go back to the beginning, if that’s OK.  Your formative years, your childhood, where you grew up, how you grew up. Were you raised in an artistic family? 
People who know me well are aware of my cheerful disposition and how I love to crack jokes. My mother often refers to me as the “happy nut” in our family. However, in public, I tend to come off as introverted and shy, speaking very little. This is for two reasons. Firstly, I’m near-sighted and don’t like wearing glasses, making everything seem blurred. This causes me to overlook many people and things, but it also makes me more focussed on myself, rather than paying attention to external gazes and discussions. Secondly, my dad taught me from a young age that, “The more one talks, the more mistakes one can make”, so I’m always extra careful when I speak or act outside.

I suppose my personality could be classified as a people-pleaser.  Much of it has to do with my parents’ subtle influence. My sister and I are twins, and we were born when my father was quite old, so he’s always been particularly protective. Even to this day, he often warns us about dangers (which I understand, considering he grew up in a time of turmoil, poverty and hardship). For instance, he advises us to be cautious about falling when using an elevator, to keep looking behind us when walking in case someone is following, to not accept food from strangers and always to bring him along for job interviews (though I’ve never actually done so).

I was born and grew up in Guangzhou, China. Cantonese and Mandarin are my mother tongues. My English education began with my mother, who served as my father’s translator in the 90s; she isn’t so proficient now due to lack of practice. My father only speaks his dialect and isn’t keen on learning new languages. From an early age, he taught us calligraphy and seal carving, but because I was too playful, I didn’t learn calligraphy well, which I regretted later in university (where I was even more playful, haha!). We visited parks every year for our birthdays, so it’s fair to say we’ve explored all the parks in Guangzhou. I joined a sketching training camp one summer in middle school which meant I woke up at 5am and finished at around 5pm every day.  And in the final semester of high school, I attended a painting training camp.  My sister and I were admitted to one of China’s top art colleges. Traditional Chinese painting is something that I picked up in university and have been studying since.

I have to admit that my dad is a good teacher.  His knowledge is extensive and he is incredibly smart.  At my graduation, he was able to discuss poetry and classical texts with my tutor for an entire afternoon.  He has indeed taught me a great deal.  However, he can be too dominant, overly protective and he limits our actions a lot.  By the way, he is a Leo, and I have decided never to marry a Leo man, haha!  

I enjoy discussing artistic concepts and creative processes.  And I also really enjoy painting and I love the surprises that uncertainty brings to my work.  If the surprise is upsetting, I laugh it off, change it and make it beautiful.  Its beauty then reaches others who come in contact with it.  If the surprise is just right, I am overjoyed and celebrate.  

Can you tell us about what you learned at art college?  Have you been working as an artist since then? 
When I was admitted to college, I chose to major in Chinese painting, which is completely different from sketch and colour. It is the pursuit of two-dimensional performance, such as painting figures in exquisite black, white and grey. The description of the painting “object” must be very accurate and careful in order to create a three-dimensional sense from it. Traditional Chinese painting pays attention to artistic conception. Artistic conception is hazy beauty, or transcendent beauty, from limited to infinite.  The concept of “mood” is richly embodied in Chinese painting. The theme, its composition, depiction, emotion, and overall arrangement must all convey this mood, sometimes described as the soul of a painting. Chinese paintings are often called silent poetry. The harmony between an object’s characteristics and the artist’s emotions is what gives a painting its poetic essence, creating art that intrigues and resonates. A painting that deeply conveys emotions and has strong expressiveness captivates its viewers.

Traditional Chinese painting is done with a brush. The front of the brush can be long or short, and the amount of hair will affect its water absorption. Therefore, there are often uncertain factors when using a brush, so strong control ability is needed. When I was an undergraduate, the teacher let us learn landscapes, figures, flowers and birds, and then choose the direction we wanted to further our study. I chose landscape painting. To draw a landscape, we must first practice the basic elements of the painting method, such as: trees, stones, clouds, water flow, etc. And then, we do a lot of copying. We copy the excellent traditional paintings of ancient times, for example Wang Meng’s Seclusion in Qing Bian, Fan Kuan’s Journey to Xishan and Huang Gongwang’s Residence in Fuchun Mountain, etc.  

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Huang Gongwang’s Residence in Fuchun Mountain

And then, we go back to sketching again.  Every year, we follow our teachers all over the country to sketch.  Places such as Taihang Mountain in Henan Province, Tiantai Mountain in Zhejiang Province and Jinggangshan Mountain in Jiangxi Province.  And finally, the creative stage.  Creation stage is the hardest; to draw a picture from present life, and to combine the techniques learned to make the performance work.  In this process, I often experience long periods of self-doubt because a brush stroke might not meet my expectations.  It’s just a very struggling process.

Taihang Mountain

I am a professional artist, but not full-time, I am an art teacher for children because I need a stable job to guarantee my life.  My teacher at college told me to “Live first, and then pursue the ideal”.  I am an idealist in the bottom of my heart and a very romantic person, but I also know that I must face reality. 

Two of Mear’s students earnestly creating their masterpieces

How did you first hear about NFTs, and how did your classical art training translate to digital art? 
I heard about it from my friend.  At first, I didn’t care about it, but later, when more people discussed it, I gradually learned more and then became interested.  I draw with pen and paper and then take photographs of the artwork, which I adjust through the computer to form an NFT.  I use simple retouching tools like Sketchbook, because I feel that the computer is hard to operate, at least for me.

What advice would you give to artists who know nothing about the NFT space, but are interested in trying it? 
At present, I often mention NFTs to my classmates, but because we have to use a VPN to get access, many people are not willing to really understand it.  They think it is a new field, or that it is very troublesome, and that it is better to just draw their own paintings.  I would like to say to the artists who are interested in NFTs, that you are very welcome to the world of NFT. Although it is a little difficult to cast into it, isn’t it good to share your works and to find people who like them?

I agree totally, and I’m so glad that you did join the NFT community! Finally, Mear, can you please share with us what you are working on at the moment? And what are your wishes and hopes for the future? 
At present, I am drawing some large landscape paintings, and plan to participate in more exhibitions held by provinces, or by the state. Of course, it is difficult to get the qualification for these exhibitions, but I will try my best. For the future, I hope to become a successful professional painter, just like the famous painters in history.

If you are interested in checking out (and even better, buying) some of Mear’s work, you can find her art at OpenSea and Foundation marketplaces.

Ejo #163 – Drunk In….. Greece (Birthday Edition): AKA – A Love Letter To Marya

I had big plans for my 50th birthday party.  Huge!  Destination island (I had my eye on Sardinia), lots of food, sunshine, champagne and all my favourite people gathered together to celebrate my half century with me.  A bacchanalian Festival of Chryss!  But alas, it was not to be, for Miss Rona had other plans.  I couldn’t even go back home to see my family and friends, as Australia had completely shut its borders to travellers.  Even citizens.  Even me!!!  Two years in the making, my grand plans for a birthday extravaganza were cruelly shattered; but please don’t bother opening the case of your tiny violin for me just yet.  For, as soon as it became clear that my plans had gone to shit, I consoled myself by booking a trip to Greece with David.  And the cherry on top of the birthday cake was that one of my best friends in the world, Marya, and her partner Pablo, flew all the way from California to join us!! 

The four of us rendezvoused at Athens airport the day before my birthday, and hopped on an afternoon flight to Zakynthos, excited to be starting our Greek adventure together.  As we approached our magnificent villa, set in a vast olive grove, we were greeted by a symphony of cicadas welcoming us..  This thunderous sound, which was foreign and peculiar to Marya’s ears, felt like home to mine.  Over the last few years, Greece has become so much more to me than just a holiday destination.  It is a place I have developed a very deep connection to, and an abiding love for.  I feel my roots starting to take hold in Greek soil, and I see myself settling down there once our Dubai hijinks are over and done with (hopefully sooner, rather than later).

For dinner, we strolled to the local taverna, Armonia Restaurant, which was only a two minute walk from our place.  We ordered delicious food and, as is the Greek way, got absolutely shitfaced on barrel wine and raucous laughter.  After we were gently encouraged to please go home by the tired taverna staff, the four of us tipsily staggered through the olive trees back to the villa for a swim.  Less than five minutes after jumping in the pool we all kind of looked at each other and collectively decided we didn’t really need to be wearing swimsuits, right?  We were all friends.  We were all grown ups.  So the bathers came off and we basically spent the rest of the holiday in our birthday suits!  How apt!  The next couple of hours very much lived up to the name of this ejo series.  Drinking copious amounts of wine, quaffing cocktails and doing shots of mastiha.  Completely nude, we frolicked in the water and we gallivanted around the garden and we laughed and laughed and laughed until my sides hurt.  I was having the time of my life. 

Until… I stupidly (oh, so stupidly) slipped on the wet tiles as I was running (running??!!!) back to the pool from the kitchen.  I remember becoming airborne, as if I’d just slipped on a cartoon banana peel, and when I came down I landed on my back on the sharp edge of the pool.  I blacked out for a few seconds and came to in the water, engulfed in agony and unable to breathe.  Winded by the fall I struggled to take a breath and, panicked, my first thought was that I’d broken my back.  But as air entered my lungs and I dramatically bawled in Marya’s comforting embrace, I gratefully realised that I was still able to move my arms and legs.  Still, I knew something was terribly wrong and the next morning I woke up in the most excruciating pain I’ve ever experienced in my entire life.  I have violently snapped most of the ligaments in my knees, I’ve broken bones and I’ve been hospitalised (and operated on) for my dreadful habit of rupturing ovarian cysts.  I know pain.  But I’ve never felt anything like the pain I felt that morning.  The drama queen in me imagined that my insides were awash with a tsunami of blood, that my pancreas or my lung had been pierced by an errant stiletto of rib bone.  It hurt to talk, it hurt to laugh, it hurt to move, it hurt to breathe.  It hurt to just sit there and do nothing.  You know that little violin we were talking about earlier?  You can take it out now.  Happy 50th birthday to me!!! 

The red arrow marks the spot.

Agonisingly slowly, and wallowing in self-pity, I showered and dressed, and gingerly tiptoed down the stairs to join the others.  We were all horribly hungover and I was shocked to learn that David had also drunkenly injured himself the night before, breaking his little toe after slamming it into the coffee table.  Oy vey!!  This was not a healthy start to our holiday, but I was grittily determined to keep having a goddamn good time.  I made a quick birthday video call to my sisters, which was wonderful, but I could see myself on the screen, wincing with pain the whole time.  I didn’t know it then, but x-rays later confirmed that I’d broken three ribs and displaced another rib in my fall.  I mean, I hit the edge of the pool really fucking hard.  If I’d made any contact with my spine, mere centimetres to the right, I’m fairly certain I’d have broken my back.  And if I’d hit my head, I reckon I’d be dead.  So it’s no surprise that I was feeling so rough.  In fact, I was in severe pain for the next two months, and experienced a great deal of discomfort for the next six.  The others wanted me to go to hospital but I demurred.  There’s no treatment for rib injuries and I just wanted to bloody get on with the festivities.  We spent my birthday at the villa, barbequing tender lamb chops for a feast accompanied by home-made tzatziki, fetta cheese, Greek salad, olives and crusty fresh bread.  And lots more wine, which definitely helped ease the pain of my injury.

The next day, feeling slightly less like I was haemorrhaging from multiple internal organs, I insisted that we carry on with our plans for the day, and so we took a lovely scenic drive to a highly recommended restaurant set on a cliff face on the northern part of the island.  When we got to Taverna Xigia, we were absolutely blown away by the spectacular view.  Peacefully nestled in the shade of several beautiful, stately trees, the restaurant was the perfect place to while away the afternoon, eating fish that had jumped out of the water fresh that morning, and drinking several large carafes of wine (my new pain medication).  All the servers were beautiful and super friendly, but Pablo had eyes only for the owner, Spiros, who was cheerfully running from table to table to make sure that everyone was happy.  And we all were!  Pablo was particularly riveted by the jaunty red bandana, breezily tied around Spiros’ neck.  The same bandana that was also sported by his cute little dog!!  At the end of our meal we resoundingly declared Taverna Xigia the best lunch, at the best taverna, with the best view, run by the best dude wearing a fucking amazing red bandana.

The next day while lunching at the top of a mountain, we spotted a gorgeous looking beach and decided to drive down there for a swim.  From my previous beach experiences of the Greek isles I had already insisted that we buy a couple of large beach umbrellas to protect us from the sun, but when we got there we didn’t need them.  Actually, in the whole five days we spent on Zakynthos we never once used those damn umbrellas.  In the end we lugged them to the airport with us on our way back to Athens and gave them away to a rental car full of exuberant, young Italian studs who had just arrived on the island.  They were thrilled, and beeped and waved at us as they drove away. 

The idyllic Porto Vromi beach.

When we landed at Athens airport, we headed straight to the port of Piraeus where stage two of the holiday kicked in.  Pablo had worked hard in the months leading up to the trip to attain his Captain’s license, and when we got to the port the magnificent 34 foot sailing boat we had rented was waiting for us.  Hell yes, bitches!!  For my fiftieth birthday I spent three glorious days cruising the ravishingly beautiful, deep blue seas of the Mediterranean.  It may not have been the legendary party I’d set my heart on, but it was hardly second prize, am I right? 

While our time on the yacht, cruising around the beautiful Saronic islands, was an absolutely exhilarating experience, it was also pretty punishing.  I was, unfortunately, less than useless thanks to my smashed ribs.  I was unable to help with any of the rigging, and I just found myself getting in the way all the time.  I felt particularly bad because it turns out that sailing a boat is actually really hard work.  Thankfully Marya and David (even with his broken toe) both stepped up to the plate, and made very competent first mates to Pablo’s skillful captain!

At the end of the first day of sailing, we reached the island of Salamina, anchoring offshore.  Ludicrously, we’d severely underestimated our capacity for knocking back wine and had tragically run out of booze, but David and Pablo came to the rescue by rowing the dinghy to shore in the dark to try and procure some emergency wine from the taverna on the beach.  Somehow they managed to sweet talk the owners into selling them some white wine, which almost became wine for the fishes because halfway back to the sailboat the dinghy slowly started sinking.  They somehow made it back, deflated dinghy and all, and we celebrated with a cheerful round of warm cat piss!  Hey, you take what you’re given in a wine emergency.  We drank it and we were grateful for it. 

The next day we set sail for the neighbouring island of Aegina, but there was no wind so we drifted along at a crawling pace, which was fine with us.  There was nowhere we needed to be!  Along the way we navigated into some incredibly beautiful turquoise waters, and just had to stop and anchor so we could all go for a skinny dip!  When we got back on the boat, Marya ran to the bow to hoist the anchor, and while she was gone I thought I heard her shout something so I yelled back to ask if she was OK, and she cried out, “No!”  Pablo, David and I all dashed to the front of the boat, and when I saw all the blood I scrambled back to the cabin to try and find the first aid kit.  While she’d been pulling up the anchor, Marya’s toes had got caught in the steel-sprung latch door which had unexpectedly slammed shut.  Her foot was covered in blood and her second toe was dangling precariously.  I’ve known Marya for many years and I’ve never seen her cry before.  To see her sobbing like a child broke my heart, and I did my best to comfort her while she bandaged up her foot.  My mind couldn’t help but go back to just a few days earlier when she had held me in her arms after I’d hurt myself in the pool. 

I first met Marya in San Francisco in September 1999 when I visited a friend that she was dating at the time.  She picked me up from the airport, and it is no exaggeration at all to say that when our eyes met across the crowded terminal I knew it was her, and she knew it was me, and it was love at first sight.  And ever since then, we’ve been connected by an energetic force that I cannot explain, and don’t even want to.  Despite spending most of our lives thousands of miles apart, our bond has only increased and become more loving with distance and time.  On that first three day visit to San Francisco I got to know one of the most incredible people I’ve ever met.  She’s fun, energetic, warm, kind, quirky, loving, hilarious and up for anything.  Crushing on her hard, I decided that I simply had to get a nose ring just like hers.  So she took me to a piercer in Haight Ashbury and she held my hand as they stuck a needle in my left nostril.  And 24 years later, I still have that nose ring.  I’ll never take it out because it’s an enduring memento of an incredibly special moment of time in my life.  It’s a part of who I am now. 

Marya and I have been there for each other (emotionally, if not physically) through rough patches and broken relationships, and we’ve happily celebrated the beautiful relationships that we’re in now.  We danced together in Ancient Korinth with my parents, not long before my father was diagnosed with terminal lung cancer.  Afterwards we lay on the stony beach, drunk, looking for shooting stars and holding onto each other while the sky spun.  We survived Burning Man, not just once or twice, but three times, riding bikes around the playa completely naked and free.  We’ve eaten all the Mexican food, and we’ve washed it down with all the margaritas.  Marya is now a very respected audiologist, but years ago she worked in hospitality and I remember helping her out at a bartending gig one day when one of the servers didn’t turn up.  Let’s just say that a lot of people got free drinks that night!  I totally sucked at the job, but thanks to Marya it was one of the most fun afternoons I’ve ever had.  I’ve often wished that I could marry her.  Or be her. 

Marya and I have had some intensely deep and serious conversations about mental health, about motherhood, about existence and non-existence.  We’ve kissed, and we’ve shared our inner most secrets, and supported each other during the most difficult times.  And it’s really quite outrageous how much of all of this has happened from afar.  Marya lives 12,963km away from me so we don’t see each other very often, but whenever we’re together magic happens!  And for the last 16 years, David has been lucky enough to come along for the joyride.  I’m so happy that the two of them are such good friends, and I feel so grateful that David understands the unusually deep relationship that I have with Marya.  He knows how important she is to me.  I’d go anywhere for Marya, I’d do anything for her.  And, thrillingly, I believe that she feels the same way.  Apart from my own mother, I’ve never met anyone who is as unconditionally loving and giving and kind.  I’m still shocked by how smitten she seems to be, because I honestly can’t believe my luck that such an extraordinary person could feel that way about me.  I cannot express in words how much I love her.  But surely you’re getting the idea. 

We had to get Marya to a hospital stat, so we abandoned any hope of trying to catching some wind, and just furled the sails, switching on the engines to try and motor along a little faster.  Our progress was, nevertheless, painfully slow and it took us an interminable three hours to reach the port of Aegina.  The guys dropped us off while they tried to find somewhere to dock, which would be no easy task in the crowded marina.  When Marya and I got to the hospital the medical staff attended to her right away.  They weren’t able to put any stitches on her toe, but they cleaned up the wound and bandaged her foot, telling her to come back the next day to have the dressing changed.  Marya was shocked that we were able to walk away without having to sign anything or even pay a single eurocent.  Yay socialised healthcare!

Boat: 1, Marya: 0

When we all got back to the boat later that afternoon, some major drama was brewing about where we’d parked it.  Some big shot in a fancy yacht was insisting that we were in his spot and had to move, like right now.  We’d already spent a couple of hours after a long, boozy lunch in town cajoling the harbour master, jumping through hoops and greasing her palm with an expensive bottle of wine, to allocate us that spot.  So obviously we didn’t want to move.  But the guy on the big cruiser started getting a little thuggish and causing quite the brouhaha.  Eventually the harbour master came down and told us we’d have to move our boat after all.  Even after we’d bribed her!!!  How rude.  But she was kind enough to give us another mooring close by, and Pablo and David did a magnificent job of getting the 34 footer into the tight space while Marya rested in the cabin and I watched from the floating dock.  After all the kerfuffle, a crowd had gathered to watch the guys back the boat into position, which is no easy feat in the best of circumstances, let alone under pressure, but they nailed it. 

Pablo & David doing laps around the marina until the harbour master could find a spot for them to park.

We decided that it was probably a good idea, after all the shenanigans, to stay in Aegina for the next couple of nights and try to stay out of trouble.  Three of us had been pretty badly injured, and we were worried that some Final Destination type misfortune might befall Pablo if we took the sailboat back out onto the open waters.  Aegina was delightful and I’m really glad we got the chance to stop and enjoy the pretty town.  

Before we knew it though, our last day on the boat dawned and we pushed off super early so we could get a headstart on our trip back to Piraeus.  When we finally reached the port after a long day of sailing the four of us were totally wrecked.  We were exhausted, we were sunburned, and after three and a half days without a shower we were all absolutely filthy.  We walked into our Athens Airbnb like zombies and just collapsed.  Somehow we regrouped, showered and mustered up the energy to go out on the town, but it was a pretty sedate evening and I think we all appreciated the early night and the comfortable beds. 

The next day at the airport we said goodbye to each other as Marya and Pablo headed back to the US, and David and I moved on to stage three of our Greek holiday, a couple of weeks on the island of Naxos!!  Marya being with me on my 50th birthday had made it a profoundly special celebration for me.  And despite some events making it a difficult holiday, it was also one of the best.  Just before we parted ways we joked that Pablo had somehow evaded the Final Destination injury that had befallen the rest of us on the trip.  And he, donning his new red bandana effortlessly knotted around his neck, quipped back that he had in fact been injured after all.  With liver damage.  Which is how it goes when you’re drunk in…