Ejo #77 – Goodnight, Sweet Prince

prince

 

My grandmother died a couple of years ago and I never shed a single tear for her.  I felt terrible for my Mum, but felt no sense of loss for myself.  In contrast, when I read that Prince had died, it felt like I’d been karate kicked in the stomach.  The air evacuated my lungs, startling me with the impact.  I spent the next few hours totally bewildered, unable to process the information (and not really wanting to).  And later, in the shower before bed, I bawled like a newborn baby.  Ugly crying.  Tears mixing with shower water, eyes hot and burning, cheeks flushed.  Wracked with grief.  Unable to imagine a world in which Prince no longer existed.

How could I be so devastated to hear about Prince, and not grieve my own grandmother?  Am I a monster?  Possibly, but to explore the reasons behind this disparity I’ve spent a great deal of time over the last few days thinking it through.  I’ve come to the conclusion that you can’t choose who you mourn.  You mourn when you lose something important to you, and I never had a connection with my grandmother, so when she died I lost nothing internally.  On the other hand, Prince was someone who had dwelled in my soul.  We spent time in my bedroom when I was a teenager and in my twenties (even going on a few bedroom dates in my thirties).  But it was those adolescent years, I think, in which we were most intimately entwined.

A teenage girl’s bedroom is, in a way, just like a cocoon.  It’s a place of safety and privacy, and it’s a place where transformation occurs.  The changing of a girl into a woman, with all the attendant hormone tsunamis that go with that.  I spent hours in my room forming as a human being, moulding into the adult I would become.  Spilling my thoughts, desires and secrets into my diary.  Reading.  Examining my psyche.  Examining my new boobs.  Doing my homework.  Trying to insert my first tampon.  Dancing.  Trying on clothes.  Experimenting with makeup.  Masturbating.  Daydreaming, fantasising.  And the entire time, listening to music.  The soundtrack to my life.  David Bowie, George Michael, INXS, Michael Jackson, Blondie, Stevie Wonder, Madonna and Prince.

But it was Prince, alone, whom I associate with my own burgeoning sexuality.  I pity the young girls of today who only have Justin Bieber and the likes of Robin Thicke and Chris Brown to tease out their own understanding of themselves.  These singers are adept at making women feel desired (and, let’s be honest, objectifying them in the process).  Prince didn’t do that.  Where he differed was in awakening our own budding desires and making us want him.  He was overtly sexual but not in a way that was the least bit threatening, sleazy or aggressive (“I wanna turn you on, turn you out, all night long make you shout” – I Wanna Be Your Lover, 1979).  Singers like Thicke sing about what they want to do to women in order to please themselves (sometimes even without the woman’s consent).  Prince sang about what he wanted to do to a woman in order to please her (“Lemme show you baby I’m a talented boy” – Get Off*, 1991).  The difference is vast.  Prince often referred to women in his songs as his friends.  He always insinuated a deep respect, and love, for women.  And when you’re a teenage girl, there are no more valuable lessons to learn that a) men like that actually do exist, and b) you deserve to be put on a pedestal by the men you allow into your life (“I’ll do any and everything you want me to do, you know why? Coz I want you to have fun” – The Continental, 1992).

It was actually a little confusing to be so turned on by such a diminutive man wearing frilly women’s clothes (“I’m not a woman, I’m not a man, I am something that you’ll never understand” – I Would Die 4 U, 1984).  But that’s exactly where his power lay – he was sexy in a way that we hadn’t been conditioned to understand.  He was feminine, he was masculine, he was super-freaky and we all wanted him to touch us.  It was a learning, horizon-broadening experience to love Prince.  I truly believe he informed my choice of men in life.  I have always eschewed the archetypal “sexy” guy with a chiselled jaw and rippling muscles (ugh!), instead, being attracted to men who made me feel a certain way inside, regardless of their looks (“You don’t have to beautiful, to turn me on” – Kiss, 1986).

And by the same token, Prince tried to teach me another lesson.  To not give a flying fuck what anyone thought of me.  To do my own thing.  To never apologise for being myself.  To never apologise for anything I wore.  I say he tried because it’s something I still struggle with.  But he never apologised for anything.  He just wore what he liked and we had to deal with it, and for that he will always be an inspiration to me.  I remember one particular casual day at school when I was in Year 7.  I was SO damn excited.  My Mum let me borrow my favourite item from her wardrobe, a pastel yellow 1950s-style poodle skirt which I wore with a little short sleeved cardigan.  I looked AMAZING.  I could barely stop admiring myself in the mirror long enough to actually go to school.  But when I got there, the ooohs and ahhhhs of sartorial adulation I was expecting to hear from my classmates actually turned out to be snickers, jeers and merciless teasing.  At that time, I didn’t have the belief in myself that I (mostly) do now and the experience crushed me.  By the end of the day, I hated that skirt, which is so terribly sad.  Especially when I think back to what the cool kids were all wearing – parachute tracksuit pants (if you don’t know what these are, please look them up so you can fully understand the tragic nature of this story).

So, watching Prince prance around onstage in a tight, flared onesie with his bare ass cheeks proudly on display was a sight of wonderment for me.  On the one hand, I found his clothing pretty ridiculous (perhaps the same opinion my schoolmates had of my poodle skirt).  But on the other, bigger, hand, his complete confidence and self-assurance made his outfits seem incredible.  He just quite clearly did not give a damn whether we approved or not.  And in doing so, we had no choice but to love everything he wore.  I wanted to wear clothes armed with that kind of attitude.  I still do.

Another memory from high school.  When I was sixteen years old, my high school English teacher lost the plot and stopped teaching us English for a while.  She went through a phase of playing us songs instead and dissecting the lyrics (no complaints from us).  The nadir of her personal crisis was when we spent two whole weeks analysing Don McLean’s “American Pie” (I can tell you what each and every line supposedly means, and I’m still waiting for that knowledge to come in handy one day).

Anyway, towards the end of the project my teacher asked if anyone wanted to suggest a song that the class could interpret together.  My hand shot up and I volunteered ‘Sign ☮ The Times’ by Prince, without even thinking.  I had spent the last few weeks listening to the song over and over and over again, in thrall of it.  It was the coolest thing I’d ever heard.  I, on the other hand, was not cool.  I was the opposite of cool.  But I still KNEW that this was a fantastic song and I figured that choosing it for my English class was going to give me some major fucking props with the cool kids.

The next day I handed out photocopies of the song lyrics.  I was so excited to share this song with everyone.  I almost felt proud, actually visualising my life changing as a result.  People would realise I was OK.  They’d want to hang out and I’d become popular.  It charms the hell out of me now, thinking back to what a vivid imagination I possessed, how much I craved approval and how deep and textured my internal life was, compared to my reality.

But guess what?  The song was a bust.  My teacher was mad that I had handwritten the lyrics and not typed them out (on a typewriter!!!!).  And my classmates just didn’t get it.  They hated it.  They thought it was shit.  I was teased (again).  My teacher stopped the song half way through and the rest of the period was spent in private study.  I distinctly remember feeling two very intense emotions about this.  Firstly, I was seriously dumbfounded that my premonitions hadn’t come true.  But more than that, I remember realising, “Oh my god, I’M the fucking cool kid here.  These people don’t have a clue!”  I mean, how can you listen to ‘Sign ☮ The Times’ and not love it?  HOW?  It was an epiphany.  It was the beginning of not needing the approval of other people, of just believing in myself.  The beginning of not having to follow the crowd.  I was always going my own way anyway, but I’d always experienced so much angst about it.  Not anymore.

Prince is tied in to so many of my emotions and memories and growth that in some way it feels like he is part of my DNA.  I truly believe that I only know some parts of myself because of him.  And so mourning Prince is like mourning a part of me that is gone.  And that’s why I feel such an intense sadness that he has died.  No, I didn’t know him personally (regrettably, I never even saw him in concert).  He wasn’t related to me.  But my grief is real.  And so is the grief of so many others.  Here are a few tributes:

Silvia – “First memory of Prince is the most poignant. I was in bed with my then macho young boyfriend watching MTV.  Prince appeared singing ‘Purple Rain’, and my heart stopped.  Literally.  Physically he looked like my boyfriend, same colour skin, hair and mouth, but his energy was female, and his clothes just fabulous.  Prince’s female/androgynous, raw, sexual energy turned me on so much it was almost uncomfortable.  I was 17½  at the time.  I never married that young man. I would have married Prince if I could have.  His vulnerability, flamboyance mixed with sensuality made him very attractive to many lesbians too.”

Patrick – “In 6th grade Mom drove to my Catholic school to confiscate my ‘1999’ cassette because somehow she got tipped off ‘Let’s Pretend We’re Married’ has the word fuck in it.  She comes into class and takes it.  I never get it back.

In 1987, now a sophomore in high school, I purchase my first CD boom box. I buy two discs from the used record shop that day.  Prince’s ‘1999’ and L.L. Cool J.’s ‘Bad’.  I still listen to one of them.

Sometime in high school, my three brothers and I are cleaning our rooms.  I am blasting ‘Sign O’ The Times’ and ‘If I Was Your Girlfriend’ comes on.  Mom catches wind of the lyrics, comes storming into my room, turns off my player, and snatches away the cassette of…. ‘Around The World In A Day’ (which is the wrong album [and] I also have the CD).  Check and mate, Mom.

As a seventh-grader, I am confused as to whether ‘Darling Nikki’ is using the magazine as a visual aide or an actual rolled-up masturbation tool.  Also, as a Catholic kid in the 80s, I didn’t really know women got down like that.  Thank you, Prince.

‘Purple Rain’ forever remains my favourite album of all-time, 32 years later, 3200 listens later.  At 45, I still flash back in times of need to Apollonia purifying herself in Lake Minnetonka.  No, seriously, thank you, Prince.  The world is less funky without you in it.  Dance.  Music.  Sex.  Romance.”

H – “It snowed here in London [today]. One of my all-time favourite songs is ‘Sometimes It Snows In April.  I would always play it on my record player smoking a joint out my bedroom window when it snowed in April.  When he died I put it on and heard it for the first time with him gone.  So beautiful.  His music takes me to such a magical place.  Never saw him live, wish so much I had.  I love watching him live.  Such an incredible musician and so god dam sexy.”

Michelle – “I was enamoured with him, with his lyrics, with his grooves, with his mystery – he was, essentially, HOTNESS personified.  He sang about things so taboo to me as a young school girl that I didn’t even know what some of them were.  But because he had somehow managed to publish them (I couldn’t understand how he could get away with such brazen sexiness) – it meant that I could sing them and explore what they meant.  ‘I Wanna Melt With U’ – Hottest.  Song.  Ever.

But – there is so much more to him than rampantly explicit lyrics, to his music, to that particular album (which for me is a microcosm of his career).  There is ‘Sacrifice Of Victor’ – which tells a story of racial vilification so eloquently you could be mistaken to miss the significance of the underlying message.  There’s the love ballad of ‘Morning Papers’, there’s ‘Blue Light’, alluding to a couple who have lost their spark, but who were probably destined to fail from the beginning because only one is willing to try.  More hotness from ‘The Continental’, ‘Love 2 the 9’s’, ‘The Max’ and rappin’ out ‘The Flow’.  The entire tracklist still has a profound effect on me – and triggered my purchase of 13 other Prince albums.”

Jen – “I saw him in concert a few years ago and it felt like I was at some evangelical revival.  Everyone was on their feet the entire time and I was testifying with the best of them.  Hands in the air, eyes closed, singing along, sometimes with tears rolling down my cheeks.  It really did feel like I’d been taken to church.  His ability to move so effortlessly from one instrument to the next, his booty shaking prowess and of course his voice were second to none.  He was hilarious as well “You better call in sick tomorrow, coz I gotta million hits”.  His whole swag was sexy as fuck.

I cried immediately as I woke up to the news yesterday and struggled to believe that it was real.  Like Michael and Bowie, I didn’t ever really think of Prince as being mortal.  I guess his musical legacy will have him living on for generations but it’s ultimately jarring to think he was actually just flesh and blood.”

Pieta – “Gutted, robbed.  Bowie, I considered him immortal and in doing that I had considered his morality.  I never, not once, thought of Prince as being anything other than a shining dynamo.  The guy was a fucking powerhouse of sex and talent and art, there was no one like him before and I’ll wager there never will be anyone like him again.  Sexy motherfucker.”

Dee – “I’m so gutted I haven’t been able to even crank up the tunes yet.  Since [my husband] Jack was killed true joy is such a rare thing for me.  Prince’s concert in the Purple Circle with great friends and Flava Flav from Public Enemy was a couple of hours of joy.  I just can’t believe I’ll never see and feel that again.  His music moulded my sexual growth.  His raw in-your-face sexuality was a visual delight and sensory pulse raiser.  Musically there was so much more to come and I feel ripped off that I will never hear his genius evolve with age.”

Justin – “I’ve always loved his art from an early age.  His voice.  His instrumental arrangements.  His showmanship.  His compositions.  He was a true master of his craft.  Crossing so many genres and making them his own.  Bringing together so many different people through their love of his art.  I’ve always played so much from his catalogue during my DJ sets.  I’ve been lucky enough to acquire some rare white label remixes (that I know he would throw a tantrum until he turned purple if he knew about).  But such is the artistry woven by this man, that people around the world, even knowing the possible consequences from his Royal Purpleness if he were to find out, still risk it all, just for a chance to release their own remixes, interpretations and homages to this musical genius.  I was truly lucky to have seen his last full stage production in Australia a few years ago.  And we even got free upgrades from shitty seats in the nosebleeds, to second row from the front… RIGHT NEXT TO HIS PIANO!  It is, without a doubt, the best live stage production I’ve ever seen.  2016 has taken so much creativity from the world already.  The loss of his musicality will leave a great void in the world of sound.”

Natasha – “Prince helped me reach a sexual awakening in my late teens.  I was a pretty repressed teenager, a good little Catholic girl from migrant parents (and their only child!!)  Yet I would still read books like ‘Flowers in the Attic’ and really bad Mills and Boon books, while listening to Prince’s album ‘Diamond & Pearls’ on cassette tape.  I would sit on my bedroom floor visually imaging all his songs on that album.  Prince was a great story teller through his lyrics – 23 positions in a one night stand!!!  I could only imagine two positions!  I couldn’t get over how this tiny effeminate guy could be so god damn sexy!!!  This was my first introduction to Prince and one that made a lasting impression on my psyche.  He was a musical genius, his ability to continue to write amazing songs for both himself and others over his career is a staggering feat.  I’m also so impressed by his ability to play and conquer any musical instrument that he turned his gaze on.  A true legend that died too young, as they tend to do.”

Kath – “To me, growing up listening to the genius that was Prince, has made me feel so lucky to have had that in my life during my most formative years.  He was naughty, screamed sex, soulful and so goddamn funky.  To this day, ‘Baby I’m A Star’ is still one of my favourite songs to dance to and listen to while driving to work to fire me up at 6.30am!  I saw his ‘Diamonds & Pearls” concert twice and will never forget it.  He was so effeminate and tiny, and yet so sexy at the same time.  A truly amazing talent and the world is better for him having been here.”

Mari – “I remember [my friend] Sam and I as teenagers dancing around to ‘Cream’ and ‘Gett Off’ in her bedroom – I don’t know if we’d folded her futon over to make room for two tall chicks dancing or what but I remember we had heaps of room and were dancing around laughing and singing along and I felt ALIVE.  The music and the dirty lyrics made me feel sexy and I felt like I was on a ride that I didn’t want to end – ‘cause that’s what Prince did.  Didn’t matter what he looked like, what you looked like, what anyone looked like – if you didn’t come to party, don’t bother knocking on the door.  His sexual confidence was catchy as fuck!  I’m reeling at his early death, I really am.  I still can’t quite believe it.”

And from Melly (who was the first person I thought of when I heard the news) – “I have been trying to think about what to write… I have been too sad about his death that I have avoided thinking too much about it.  And I haven’t listened to his music since because I tear up.  But I read an interview with Sheila E. and she said he’d want us to celebrate him and his music, not mourn him, so I will.

The first record (and I mean vinyl) I bought was ‘Purple Rain’, ‘Purple Rain’ was the first movie I watched multiple times, ‘Purple Rain’ is still my most played record and it is still the original I bought.  His music was everything to me growing up, as was he.  I thought him sexy before I even knew what sexy was.  The way he moved, the way he played guitar, the way he dressed – everything about him, I loved.  And still do.

My wardrobe contained velvet coats with embossed buttons, shirts with flounced sleeves, loads of jewellery.  I think I wanted to be him.  Or Sheila E.  Who wouldn’t want to play music with the genius.  He played every instrument in the recording of ‘Purple Rain’, he inspired and created a musical style that is mimicked today.  ‘Darling Nikki’ is one of my favourite songs from ‘Purple Rain’ – for its naughtiness, its outrageousness – but ‘Controversy’ is my all-time favourite.  When it underwent a resurgence played at clubs in the early 2000s I always broke into a smile and into song.  I can go on and on but I’ll finish here.  My heart is saddened but my soul will always soar when I hear his music and I will always remember what his music meant to me.”

And so, goodnight sweet Prince.  You will never be forgotten.

 

 

 

 

 

* I still feel a stirring in between my legs whenever I think of this song.

Ejo #76 – An Open Letter To Facebook (c/o – MySpace)

Dear MySpace, I hope this letter finds you well. I know it’s been ages (ten years???) but I’m hoping that it’s been long enough for you to forgive me. I feel bad for what I did. No excuses. I treated you badly. All I can say now is that I’m sorry and that I hope we can move past all that and maybe even be friends.

I guess the real reason I’m writing to you now is to tell you that you were right. About Facebook, I mean. You told me to be careful, and I didn’t listen. You told me Facebook would betray my trust, and it has (over and over again). You said it would change the way I connect to people, and I laughed right in your face. But you were right. In fact, it’s even worse than you said it would be.

Sure, things were all shiny and happy in the beginning. Things were simple. They were… uncomplicated. Casual, even. To be brutally honest, if you’d asked me where I thought it was going, those first couple of years, I’d have said, “Same as MySpace”. I’m not saying that to be cruel. I just didn’t see a future with it. It was just a new-tech game. A novelty.

But then something happened, a game changer. I moved to Dubai and suddenly any platform which allowed me to easily and effortlessly stay involved in my friends’ and family’s lives became indispensable. Facebook went from a meaningless flirtation to a serious relationship, overnight.

Most of my friends, from what I can tell, use Facebook to check in from time to time, but it isn’t their primary friendship medium. They get the face-to-face time that I’m missing by living overseas. So I admit I became dependent on it. Just like you said I would. I’d wake up every morning and gorge on a plethora of interesting and witty, well thought-out statuses (stati???). Things like this (actual status updates used without permission. If one of these belongs to you, you should be proud, but if you want me to remove it just let me know):

Mrs X “is wondering how the child she just gave birth to yesterday is all of a sudden one! That’s one year closer to being a teenager – yuck!” (August 2009)

and

Mr Y: “The chillies were so hot I cried like a little baby.” (December 2010)

also

Miss Z “spent five whole minutes looking for lamb backstraps in the beef section. I’m not only beautiful, but I’m wise to boot”. (December 2012)

You know! Fun, silly, inane stuff that made me feel like I was hanging with my gang chewing the fat and shootin’ the shit.

More? How about these pearlers:

Mr A: ” “All flights in & out of Melbourne cancelled due to ash from Chilean volcano” – but how will I get home from Paris? 🙂 (June 2011)

Mr B “made an inane quip about himself in the third person.” (November 2008)

Mrs C “went to bed fine and woke up with a groin injury. Musta been some dream!” (December 2012)

Stupid fun stuff. No-one was trying to save the world. We were just connecting on that “little kid” level that makes friendships interesting and keeps them alive. Dumb stuff that only you and your group of buddies find funny. Facebook was good for that. I know you know what I’m talking about MySpace – I have a feeling it’s what you set out to do and didn’t quite manage. I know you’re mature enough to give credit where it’s due.

I will admit that I kind of got a little bit carried away with the whole Facebook thing there for a while. Obsessed? Perhaps. A smidge. I would “cultivate” my statuses. Something funny would happen or I’d think of something witty (in my opinion, anyway) and then I’d spend time polishing and honing those words until they were just right for posting. I like to think that it was inspiration for the writer in me. And that’s cool. Each to their own, I say.

But things changed, MySpace. They changed slowly at first, but lately it’s turned into an avalanche. At least for me.

My timeline (or feed, or whatever the hell you want to call it) became less about what my friends were doing or thinking or feeling, and more about reposted news items or “interesting articles”. And you know what? I actually caught that train. I figured I was learning something by reading long, obscure New Yorker articles. I was educating myself. But what was happening was that I was spending HOURS catching up on every article which headline caught my fancy. I was going down the hole. So I became more selective. I evolved.

But then there were the petitions. I started off signing everything that seemed like a good cause (Kony 2012 anyone?), and there were a lot of them. But then I’d get spammed by the charities for months on end, plus I started doubting the effectiveness of online petitions, so I just stopped signing them.

I’m proud to say I completely bypassed the Buzzfeed quizzes. What kind of farm animal am I? Fuck off, I don’t have time for this.

Then came the memes. Some of them were funny. Then the funny ones ran out and a cascade of unfunny, uninteresting, irrelevant memes took their place.

Lately it’s the inspirational quotes. How this for inspirational? “My thoughts are stars I cannot fathom into constellations.” Are you for real with this shit?? Same with the “copy and paste if you care about cancer” crap? I mean come on! And yes MySpace, I hear you, maybe the crappiness of my feed has something to do with the people I’ve chosen to “befriend” on FB. I get that. But lately I’ve taken the lead of a mate and created a custom list of friends whose updates I see (leaving those crapspirational posts lurking behind the scenes where they can’t irritate me with their uselessness). But even then MySpace, even then, Facebook (the one I picked over YOU) has decided that what I need to see is those custom friends’ likes and comments of shit that has nothing to do with me. WHY????????????

OK, I know I’m ranting now. Yes, I might have had half a bottle of sake (of course you know I’m in Japan, it’s all over Facebook – you guys still talk, I know you do). I guess what I wanted to say was that I miss you. I miss your simple algorithms that didn’t try to get into my head. I miss your easy going ways. I miss your privacy policies. I miss the good old days. Don’t tell Facebook this but I’m seriously thinking of breaking up with it. I’m over its controlling ways. I’m tired of always having to change my newsfeed from Top Stories to Most Recent. I’m sick of playing Facebook politics. I’m done with “liking” shit just to be polite. I want to be real again. And when I said that you and I could be friends again, I was lying. I don’t know what I want but you’re not it. Sorry. I probably won’t even send this lette

Ejo #75 – Drunk In….. Amsterdam 

Being my favourite place in the world, and one of my most frequently visited, I’m sure it’s no surprise to you that I’ve often found myself drunk* in this beautiful, vibrant, culturally stimulating, inviting and fun city. I guess the reason I haven’t written about it before in this series is that I have kind of wanted to keep these hidden gems private. But, in the spirit of sharing and an effort at magnanimity, behold as I lay bare just a few of our favourite corners of Amsterdam (surely you don’t expect me to give up ALL my secrets) places to get tipsy and places best experienced tipsy.

The Seafood Bar

For the last couple of years it’s become a tradition that the first meal we have after arriving in Amsterdam is at The Seafood Bar, located right next to Vondelpark. I can’t remember why or how that happened, but now I simply can’t imagine eating anywhere else on that first day. It’s become one of those things that gets me excited about an upcoming trip.

 

To me, The Seafood Bar = Amsterdam.

 

Bright and lively, it’s a place where you can get some fresh seafood cooked perfectly and served to you by attractive young waitstaff with a smile and a quip. For some reason we always get the same thing. A plate of 16 mixed oysters, fish and chips and a bottle of Ruinart champagne. Any time we’ve tried to stray from that formula we usually spend about 45 minutes trying to pick something else from the menu and then end up ordering the same thing anyway. And it’s not for lack of enticing options. Everything sounds (and looks) delicious. Maybe one of you could try something else from the menu and tell me about it.

 

I don’t eat much bread but I eat this bread. You would too.

 

Invariably, the best oysters are the local Tara’s. Fucking delicious.

 

Light and crisp batter is the signature. Delicious tartar a bonus.

 

Restaurant P. King

One of our favourite places to get a morning-after fry-up is P. King. It’s a pretty ordinary looking café that serves a pretty damn good version of Dutch brekky – ham and fried eggs smothered in melted cheese. We usually get the heart-starter version with added bacon because we’re on holiday and because we’re little piggies. We also like to get a morning after beer (because: see reasons already mentioned).

 

My concession to healthy eating? No bread.

Foam Gallery

I always like to inject a little culture into our drunken trips and on this occasion we visited the edgy Foam Gallery to check out an exhibition on the artist Francesca Woodman who killed herself at the tender young age of 22. Photographs weren’t allowed but I managed to sneak a couple in for you.

She was doing nude self-portraits from the age of thirteen.

 

An exhibition so captivating I wanted to take it home with me..

Foodhallen

I have a theory that any city worth living in has a a foodmarket, a collection of eateries and drinkeries all under one roof where you can spend an entire afternoon grazing and nibbling and sipping and slurping your way through all the stores before stumbling home for a well earned nap. Amsterdam’s version is located just outside the four canal belt but well worth the “trek”. Just like the city itself it is small but perfectly formed and worth exploring every nook and cranny. Below are some of the highlights.

 

Bitterballen are a Dutch staple.

 

More incredible oysters, with Champagne.

 

Spanish style gintonics. Each gin is served with different aromatics.

 

The most delicious cheese toasti in existence. Cheese, onion, leek, spring onion. Perfection.

 

So unnecessary and yet so necessary. Zabaglione canoli.

Screaming Beans

Best coffee in Amsterdam. That is all.

Cappuccino.

 

 

Best espresso I’ve ever had.

 

Cosy café to bunker down in when you get hit by a sudden hailstorm.

Pazzi Slow Food Pizza

It’s all in the name here. You WILL have to wait for a table (there’s only seating for about ten) but it’s well worth it. When you’re seated in the little alcove, bumping shoulders with strangers as you reach for your last slice of pizza and take a sip of your Tuscan red, you’ll feel like you’ve somehow been transported to Italy. Delizioso.


Laurierboom

Amsterdam is littered with old-fashioned pub style drinking holes called bruine cafés, or brown cafés. They are warm, cosy, friendly and usually serve a great variety of beers. They’re not trendy places (nor are they trying to be) and the bar is as likely to be propped up by a small group of elderly gentlemen sharing a joke as it is by a younger couple playing checkers. A brown bar isn’t a place for drunken revelry but more for quiet enjoyment and if that’s what you’re after you are more than welcomed to join in. My favourite is Laurierboom in the Jordaan. We always try to drop in for a game of backgammon and a beer.

A very serious game of backgammon.

 

An even more serious game of chess.

 

* Drunk in this instance suggests to say joyfully inebriated. I don’t really advocate or enjoy the kind of drunk that is sometimes associated with Amsterdam.