coffee

Ejo #68 – Drunk In….. Budapest

It’s been a few months since I popped my “Drunk In…..” series cherry in Tokyo and it’s about time to bring you the next edition.  This time we get tipsy in Budapest – an excellent city to continue the series.

If you have the means (and you do - it's extremely reasonably priced), I recommend you get your ass to the Danube Symphony Orchestra.

If you have the means (and you do – it’s extremely reasonably priced), I recommend you get your ass to the Danube Symphony Orchestra.

Budapest is a very old city bursting with youthful exuberance.  It is a most charming blend of classic (architecture, culture) and contemporary (street art, night life).  So whilst David and I most definitely delighted in a healthy dose of cultivated entertainment (Danube Symphony Orchestra, yo!), we also really enjoyed the more down to earth, rustic pleasures the city had to offer.  And those consisted mostly of something called ruin bars (or ruin pubs).

A ruin bar is what it says on the label.  It’s a bar set in a ruin (of which the city boasts many). Essentially, they are derelict buildings converted into watering holes.  It is the diametric opposite of the type of bar that blooms in Dubai, where everything has to be huge, shiny, new, glistening and glamorous.  These ruin bars revel in being as crude, rudimentary, homespun, makeshift and DIY as possible.  They are outfitted with various bric-a-brac, found objects and second hand stuff.  They are a tonic to my soul.

The very first ruin bar was Szimpla Kert (kert means garden in Hungarian).  Rather than allow the demolition of an abandoned building back in 2001, a group of entrepreneurial, young, free thinkers managed to convince the city to leave the vestige standing and allow them to open up a bar/open air cinema which they outfitted with whatever furniture they could find. It stands today, not only as a monument to the progressive and tolerant ways of this European city, but as an inspiration for an entire subculture of taverns that remain unique to Budapest. Why allow these abandoned buildings, relics of a painful past, to stand empty? Why spend money to demolish them, simply to build new, garish constructions?  And why not allow their historic bones to be fleshed out with the spirited liveliness of youth and enthusiasm.  Why not, indeed?

We tried several ruin bars and these are our favourites.

Mika Kert
This was the least well known but our very favourite kert.  It was ultra relaxed – an unkempt dive-bar in a back yard, strung with fairy lights and odd garden furniture (including a boat!!!). One of this place’s strong points is that they make VERY strong, cheap drinks. There is a nightclub attached to it but we just went to the beer garden, which was great. Very relaxed.

Amazing street out looks over this relaxed bar.

Amazing street art looks over this relaxed bar.

OK, so we got the strongest drink on the block (Long Island Ice Tea), but I have never seen it served like this.  That is pretty well just spirits (five of 'em) and a dash of coke for propriety.

OK, so we got the strongest drink on the block (Long Island Ice Tea), but I have never seen it served like this. It’s pretty well just spirits (five of ’em) and a dash of coke for propriety.

Anker’T
This place can apparently get super busy on weekends and late at night but we went in the afternoons and it was very chilled out.  It was another favourite because again, it was very easy going and laid back and it was literally a five minute walk from our house.  Always service with a smile (not something you get at all the ruin bars – I’m looking at you Szimpla!!!) and again, super cheap.

Anker'T

Anker’T

Look for the big A.

Look for the big A.

Inside the courtyard.

Inside the courtyard.  Notice the “ruin” setting.

Grandio Bar
This great ruin bar is part of a hostel complex – so there are always backpackers slouching around, but that’s cool.  The wonderful, thing about this bar is the gorgeous garden.  It feels like a real escape into a garden of Eden (where they just happen to serve cheap drinks).  It’s a wonderful place to spend a few hours reading a book and enjoying the chirping of the birds while drinking $2 beers.

Grandio's beautiful garden.

Grandio’s beautiful garden.

So, apart from ruin pubs there are also a few other types of drinking establishments.  Two of our favourites are both very nice, and very different.  The first is a craft beer bar and the second a high end cocktail mixology den.

Kandallo Artisinal Pub
Budapest is renowned for its cheap beer (and seriously, it’s fucking cheap) but this place serves not just cheap beer, but artisinally made craft beer, along with the kind of food that is perfect for soaking up an afternoon of being drunk in Budapest.  Wonderful chicken wings and an assortment of burgers.  If you’re feeling game, try the cherry beer (it’s a unique flavour, popular in Hungary).

List of craft beers (you may need someone to translate for you - or.... just point to one and hope you like it)

List of craft beers (you may need someone to translate for you – or…. do what we did and just point to one and hope you like it)

Yep!  Cherry beer is EXACTLY what we wanted.

Yep! Cherry beer is EXACTLY what we wanted.

Spicy chicken wings hit the spot (as did the accompanying, thick-cut roast potato).

Spicy chicken wings hit the spot (as did the accompanying, thick-cut roast potato).

Pulled pork burger with yummy coleslaw.  Perfect end to a night trawling the ruin bars of Budapest.

Pulled pork burger with yummy coleslaw. Perfect end to a night trawling the ruin bars of Budapest.

Bar Pharma
AMAZING cocktails. Very intricate recipes and exotic ingredients – high end mixology.  The first night we went, we managed to sneak in, just as they were preparing to close (the owner/manager was sweet talking a young lady who was sitting on a stool in the corner of the bar and I think we interrupted his smooth moves).  The second night, we were greeted like old friends.  This place is not for everyone, but for the travelling drinker that appreciates fine cocktails, you will find a home at Bar Pharma.

Bar Pharma is the place to go for precisely measured concoctions that will tickle your finer sensibilities.  Go at the start of the evening, rather than the end.  You'll appreciate the art of the drink better.

Bar Pharma is the place to go for precisely measured concoctions that will tickle your finer sensibilities. Go at the start of the evening, rather than the end. You’ll appreciate the art of the drink better.

Having studied chemistry at high school and university, there is something very appealing to me about a bar that takes it's ethos from the lab.

Having studied chemistry at high school and university, there is something very appealing to me about a bar that takes it’s ethos from the lab.

Cocktail 1

Cocktail 1

Cocktail 2

Cocktail 2

Cocktail 3 (yes, that is a popcorn rim)

Cocktail 3 (yes, that is a popcorn rim)

Cocktail 4

Cocktail 4

Cocktail 5

Cocktail 5

Eat & Meet
Not necessarily adjunct to the drinking experience of Budapest, but most certainly one that I would highly recommend anyway, is an interesting pop-up restaurant called Eat & Meet (which is a godawful name, but a really wonderful concept).  Suzie, a young Hungarian woman with a love of food, entrepreneurial spirit and pride for her city, hosts up to ten guests at a time for dinner in her parent’s apartment.  Suzie’s parents serve up delicious, home-made Hungarian food and local wines while Suzie sits at the table and entertains.  It’s a truly unique experience and one that I’d highly recommend.  If you are interested, Suzie also does foodie tours of the city.

The view from the apartment.

View of the Danube from Suzie’s parents’ apartment.

Dessert - chocolate cake with cherry filling.  Divine.

I was too busy enjoying the food and chatting with other guests to take photos of the three other courses.  Suffice to say I had seconds of the main dish.  Here is dessert – chocolate cake with cherry filling. Divine.

Retro Bufe Langos
Langos is a typical Hungarian snack of fried bread (oh yeah, baby, I said fried bread!!!!) topped with various ingredients. Hungarians eat it with just cream cheese and cheese, but other offerings are available too.  This is very, very naughty food – but soooooooooooo good.  I’d say this particular langos shop is the best one in Budapest (going from my research and how damn delicious it was!!!).

Menu

Menu

Hungarian style (plus fried, crispy onion - which I can never say not to if it's offered to me)

Hungarian style (plus fried, crispy onion – which I simply can’t refuse, if it’s on offer)

And, coz I like my onion, Hungarian style (cream cheese and cheese) but with a topping of fresh onion.

And, coz I like my onion, Hungarian sausage langos: cream cheese and cheese, fresh onion and Hungarian sausage.  Mmmmmm!  Wash it all down with a refreshing Hungarian brew.

My Little Melbourne
Anyone who’s ever been drunk anywhere knows how important coffee is the next day.  My regular readers will know how much I love coffee (and how I despair at the crap coffee found in Dubai). So whenever we travel I compile a list of the “best” places to get coffee and we make an effort to try all of them before settling on a favourite.  For me, My Little Melbourne was the best coffee in Budapest, hands down.  Espresso Embassy is supposedly ranked up there, but it tasted like they made the coffee with long life milk (which is unacceptable to me). The owners of My Little Melbourne aren’t actually Melburnians but a Hungarian couple who went to Melbourne on a vacation and loved the coffee so much, they brought the style and ethos back to Budapest.  They do perfect lattes and flat whites.

My Little Melbourne serving (what I think is) the best coffee in Budapest.

My Little Melbourne serving (what I think is) the best coffee in Budapest.

Look at that froth.  Cappuccino perfection.

Look at that froth. Cappuccino perfection.

Ejo #63 – Drunk In….. Tokyo (Bars Tram & Trench)

DRUNK IN….. TOKYO
BAR TRAM & BAR TRENCH

These two incredible bars are run by the Small Axe group, and if you are serious about your cocktails, you will most definitely want to make a stop at either (or both) bars. We, of course, in the name of research, went to both. The focus in both places is on absinthe (and they have an incredible range of the spirit) but the geniuses behind the bar (and they are a true pleasure to watch when concocting their masterpieces) are cocktail experts across the board. Try one of their complex, but balanced, monthly recommendations, like we did. And then try one of their signature absinthe cocktails, like we did. If we had been spending more time in Tokyo I would have tried their entire drink menu. Best thing? They’re within walking distance of each other and serve different drinks.

Bar Tram does double duty during the day as a serious coffee shop. I have never seen drip coffee being made with such intense concentration and focus – one drop at a time. It’s lovely to watch someone so passionate about his art – and then even better to reap the reward by drinking the result. Highly recommended.

Shhhhh!!  The perfect coffee takes crazy concentration.

Shhhhh!! The perfect coffee takes crazy concentration.

Bar Tram - absinthe in the background

Bar Tram – absinthe in the background

David had this beetroot based cocktail in a pewter mug sprinkled with gold leaf stars.  AMAZE!!!!!

David had this beetroot based cocktail in a pewter mug sprinkled with gold leaf stars. AMAZE!!!!!

Mine was one of the most delicious cocktails I've ever had.  But guess what?  I was drunk (in Tokyo) so I can't remember what was in it.  Raspberries and pink peppercorn by the look of it.

Mine was one of the most delicious cocktails I’ve ever had. But guess what? I was drunk (in Tokyo) so I can’t remember what was in it. Raspberries and pink peppercorn by the look of it.

They hand chip the ice with the flick of a knife into an emerald cut shape.  It's all in the details.

They hand chip the ice with the flick of a knife into an emerald cut shape. It’s all in the details.

When we got to Bar Trench they were full so we sat outside in the drizzle.  They brought us out warm towels, took our drink order and served us on a nearby bench.  Hospitality in Japan is second to none.

When we got to Bar Trench they were full so we sat outside in the drizzle. They brought us out warm towels, took our drink order and served us on a nearby bench. Hospitality in Japan is second to none.

BAR TRAM INFO:
1-7-13 Ebisunishi Shibuya Tokyo
(Address in Japanese: 渋谷区恵比寿西1-7-13−2F)
+81 3 5489 5514
Coffee: 1000-1900 (Closed Mondays)
Bar: 1900-0200 (later on weekends)

 
 
BAR TRENCH INFO:
1-5-8 Ebisunishi Shibuya Tokyo
(Address in Japanese: 渋谷区恵比寿西1-5-8)
+81 3 3780 5291
Open 1900-0200 (Closed Sundays)

Return to Drunk In….. Tokyo

Ejo #53 – An Open Letter To Jamie Elfman (The Barista At Tom&Serg)

Hi Jamie. I must admit that in the three months since you wrote to me, I’ve been stewing over how to respond to your (quite nasty) comments. I’ve been crafting a cutting counterstrike. A scathing riposte. In the interim I’ve been rather busy but it was always in the back of my mind, brewing away (haha, I crack myself up). But the fact is that I don’t actually want to get into a slanging match with you. Regardless of what you may think, I’m not a mean person. You didn’t like my original post, but it wasn’t intended to be malicious. I’d had a few bad coffee experiences and was simply lamenting the lack of good coffee in Dubai. It was never a personal attack on Tom, Sergio or you.

For the sake of clarity, however, I do feel the need to correct a few of your misconceptions. In your letter, you painstakingly point out (no less than four times) that I am not a coffee expert. You know what? You’re absolutely right. Though I’d love for you to take a moment to read my original post again and please point out where I claimed that I was. I’ll save you the time. Not once. For I am not an expert in coffee. But, I am two other things where coffee is concerned.

The first, is that I am a coffee lover. I really do love the stuff. I drink it every day. I’m lucky enough to travel a lot. Which means I get to drink great coffee all around the world. Since you’ve written to me I’ve had fantastic coffee in Melbourne, Adelaide, Hong Kong, London and Amsterdam. I’m not telling you this to show off. I’m just pointing out that my frame of reference extends beyond the city of Dubai.

Coffee Means Everything

Coffee Means Everything

And I am so mad-keen about the stuff that it’s become part of my planning routine to research the best places to get coffee when we travel. Accommodation, transport, restaurants, coffee. The basics. The essentials. So, when you say that my taste in coffee runs to “stale” and “dry” you’re not actually just insulting me, but also some of the best coffee houses in the world (well, in my humble (non-expert) opinion anyway).

For instance I’ve enjoyed magnificent lattes at The Coffee Collective in Copenhagen and tremendous coffee at Patricia in my hometown, Melbourne. I’ve had several outstanding coffees at Coco Espresso in Hong Kong – in fact we go every day whenever we visit, and sometimes twice a day. In London, we’ve been to Monmouth Coffee at Borough Market and Nude Espresso in Brick Lane and we also recently tried Prufrock Coffee. I’ve even had the most incredible slow drip coffee in Kyoto (of all places). I’ve preferred every single one of these cafés to Tom & Serg. I’m not certain that they rank “amongst the best in the world” but surely they’re not “shitty places”, as you refer to them in your comments??

Latte at Coco Espresso

Latte at Coco Espresso

The second thing I am when it comes to coffee is a C.U.S.T.O.M.E.R. I was recently in Australia (yes, I’ve been several times in the 5½ years we’ve lived here, and have enjoyed the evolving coffee scene each and every time) and I tell you what, I was blown away by the high level of service I received there. The hospitality industry in Melbourne is WORLD FUCKING CLASS (capitals for emphasis). It’s second to none. If it was possible, I would bet you every single cup of coffee for the rest of my life, that if I’d made the same claims about one of Melbourne’s prime cafés that I made about Tom & Serg, I would NOT have been called a “bullshit” artist by the barista. I would NOT have been belittled, mocked and disparaged by him. Instead, I reckon they would have invited me back to their shop for a nice cup of coffee and a chat. And you know what else, Jamie? If you had done that, if you’d written to me and said, “Chryss, we’re really sorry about your previous experiences here. Would you please come back to Tom & Serg and I’d love to make you the best coffee of your life”, I would have a very different view of you than I do now.

My husband and I recently went back to Tom & Serg (oh, we’re suckers for punishment aren’t we???). I really wanted to give it another chance. We went in around 11.30am on a Tuesday morning and sat down at the bench near the front door. And we waited for someone to come and take our order. And we waited. And waited. And kept on bloody waiting. In fact we waited for 11 minutes and 27 seconds. This is not “bullshit”. This is a true story. The place was not busy (there were about six or seven tables in use) and there wasn’t a shortage of staff (there were about six or seven servers hanging around). At about the eight minute mark I actually stood up and waved my arms around (semaphore-style) trying to get someone’s attention. To no avail. In the end, I literally had to get out of my chair and go and fetch someone to take our order. And because you’ve inferred that I lie about the crappy service I tend to receive at your establishment, I asked the server her name (which I can give you privately if you like) and showed her my stopwatch (which I started right after we sat down in the sad, yet inevitable, expectation that we would indeed, have to wait). We had a bit of a chat and she was suitably sheepish about the delay. Ask her about it. I’m sure she remembers me.

Tsk tsk.

Tsk tsk.

So that was one thing I noticed. The service is still pretty shitty. The second thing I noticed was that when we got our latte, it was significantly warmer than the other coffees we’ve had there in the past. In fact, I’d venture to say (without the benefit of a thermometer – but with the benefit of my many years of experimenting with coffee temperatures) that it was quite hot. Over 70ºC. So, my observation is this. Either you have bowed under the pressure of customer demands to make your coffee hotter (in which case I spurn you for not having the strength to stick to your convictions). Or, you are inconsistent about heating your milk to 65ºC (in which case, I scoff at the weakness of your convictions).

Consistency, Jamie!!! Just one more thing you misinterpreted from my original post. I quote: “Quality is not just about perfection, it is about consistency”. I guess you could take the word “consistency” to mean the texture of the coffee. But that’s a stretch. I mean, my sentence was pretty clearly discussing quality. And if the quality is good one day, but bad the next – there’s no consistency. I’d imagine that as a barista, you’d want to produce something of consistently good quality. No??? Catherine, the barista at Coco Espresso in Hong Kong makes consistently great coffee. Day in, day out. Yes, it tastes slightly different every time. But the quality is always high. It’s consistent. Good. And that’s what I was referring to. The four coffees I’ve had at your joint have varied wildly in quality. They’ve been inconsistent. Bad.

OK. Enough. I’ll tell you something. I’m crazy about coffee. I can tell, from your misguided but emotional email, that you are too. Perhaps under different circumstances we might have been friends. But it’s OK that we’re not. I don’t need any more friends. What I do need is someone to open an awesome, little ten-seater café in Dubai. A place where EVERY SINGLE COFFEE is made with love and attention. A place like Please Say Please in Adelaide, Australia where I watched dozens of coffees being made as though each one was a work of art or a little baby lovingly being brought into the world. Tom & Serg is not that place, but I still wish it the best. No hard feelings, mate.

Please Say Please

Please Say Please

The (loving) creation of coffee.

The (loving) creation of coffee at Please Say Please.