Drunk In…..

Ejo #75 – Drunk In….. Amsterdam 

Being my favourite place in the world, and one of my most frequently visited, I’m sure it’s no surprise to you that I’ve often found myself drunk* in this beautiful, vibrant, culturally stimulating, inviting and fun city. I guess the reason I haven’t written about it before in this series is that I have kind of wanted to keep these hidden gems private. But, in the spirit of sharing and an effort at magnanimity, behold as I lay bare just a few of our favourite corners of Amsterdam (surely you don’t expect me to give up ALL my secrets) places to get tipsy and places best experienced tipsy.

The Seafood Bar

For the last couple of years it’s become a tradition that the first meal we have after arriving in Amsterdam is at The Seafood Bar, located right next to Vondelpark. I can’t remember why or how that happened, but now I simply can’t imagine eating anywhere else on that first day. It’s become one of those things that gets me excited about an upcoming trip.

 

To me, The Seafood Bar = Amsterdam.

 

Bright and lively, it’s a place where you can get some fresh seafood cooked perfectly and served to you by attractive young waitstaff with a smile and a quip. For some reason we always get the same thing. A plate of 16 mixed oysters, fish and chips and a bottle of Ruinart champagne. Any time we’ve tried to stray from that formula we usually spend about 45 minutes trying to pick something else from the menu and then end up ordering the same thing anyway. And it’s not for lack of enticing options. Everything sounds (and looks) delicious. Maybe one of you could try something else from the menu and tell me about it.

 

I don’t eat much bread but I eat this bread. You would too.

 

Invariably, the best oysters are the local Tara’s. Fucking delicious.

 

Light and crisp batter is the signature. Delicious tartar a bonus.

 

Restaurant P. King

One of our favourite places to get a morning-after fry-up is P. King. It’s a pretty ordinary looking café that serves a pretty damn good version of Dutch brekky – ham and fried eggs smothered in melted cheese. We usually get the heart-starter version with added bacon because we’re on holiday and because we’re little piggies. We also like to get a morning after beer (because: see reasons already mentioned).

 

My concession to healthy eating? No bread.

Foam Gallery

I always like to inject a little culture into our drunken trips and on this occasion we visited the edgy Foam Gallery to check out an exhibition on the artist Francesca Woodman who killed herself at the tender young age of 22. Photographs weren’t allowed but I managed to sneak a couple in for you.

She was doing nude self-portraits from the age of thirteen.

 

An exhibition so captivating I wanted to take it home with me..

Foodhallen

I have a theory that any city worth living in has a a foodmarket, a collection of eateries and drinkeries all under one roof where you can spend an entire afternoon grazing and nibbling and sipping and slurping your way through all the stores before stumbling home for a well earned nap. Amsterdam’s version is located just outside the four canal belt but well worth the “trek”. Just like the city itself it is small but perfectly formed and worth exploring every nook and cranny. Below are some of the highlights.

 

Bitterballen are a Dutch staple.

 

More incredible oysters, with Champagne.

 

Spanish style gintonics. Each gin is served with different aromatics.

 

The most delicious cheese toasti in existence. Cheese, onion, leek, spring onion. Perfection.

 

So unnecessary and yet so necessary. Zabaglione canoli.

Screaming Beans

Best coffee in Amsterdam. That is all.

Cappuccino.

 

 

Best espresso I’ve ever had.

 

Cosy café to bunker down in when you get hit by a sudden hailstorm.

Pazzi Slow Food Pizza

It’s all in the name here. You WILL have to wait for a table (there’s only seating for about ten) but it’s well worth it. When you’re seated in the little alcove, bumping shoulders with strangers as you reach for your last slice of pizza and take a sip of your Tuscan red, you’ll feel like you’ve somehow been transported to Italy. Delizioso.


Laurierboom

Amsterdam is littered with old-fashioned pub style drinking holes called bruine cafés, or brown cafés. They are warm, cosy, friendly and usually serve a great variety of beers. They’re not trendy places (nor are they trying to be) and the bar is as likely to be propped up by a small group of elderly gentlemen sharing a joke as it is by a younger couple playing checkers. A brown bar isn’t a place for drunken revelry but more for quiet enjoyment and if that’s what you’re after you are more than welcomed to join in. My favourite is Laurierboom in the Jordaan. We always try to drop in for a game of backgammon and a beer.

A very serious game of backgammon.

 

An even more serious game of chess.

 

* Drunk in this instance suggests to say joyfully inebriated. I don’t really advocate or enjoy the kind of drunk that is sometimes associated with Amsterdam.

Ejo #69 – Drunk In….. Seattle

So David and I are on holiday in the US.  I hope you weren’t expecting an intellectual essay on something of any great significance.  No, of course you know better than that.  And so you shall be rewarded with a quick discussion of some of the places we visited on our three day trip to Seattle last week.  I bring you “Drunk In….. Seattle”.

First up, right after we dropped our bags off and checked in, we headed straight to Canon, a self-proclaimed “Whiskey & Bitters Emporium”.  It is, apparently, the sixth best bar in the world, but who the fuck comes up with these lists, right?  And what are they basing it on?  If you want my opinion, it’s a nice bar, with OK food.  But you should definitely drop in and have a lovely cocktail (and while you’re there you can admire their vast collection of booze).

6th best bar in the world

6th best bar in the world

Cocktails at Canon

Cocktails at Canon

So the food at Canon was OK, as I said, but we were still a bit peckish after we left so we headed around the corner and up a few blocks to the pumping Tavern Law.  There was only one reason we went there (though they also serve a great selection of cocktails too) – and that was their famous salt & pepper fried chicken.  Oh yeah baby, this is drunken food.  This chicken was AMAZING.  And it got served with a pretty banging potato slaw too, to cut through the friedness of it all.  Highly recommended. Be prepared to wait for a seat on a weekend night though – they are jam packed.

Amazing salt & pepper fried chicken at Tavern Law.

Amazing salt & pepper fried chicken at Tavern Law.

The next day we went to southern church-themed Witness Bar for brunch, and in particular we went for their Bloody Mary’s.  We are currently in a Bloody Mary phase and we wanted to try as many good ones in town as we could.  Witness proclaims that the ingredients in their Mary, Full Of Grace are: Vodka, Tomato Juice, Spice & Salvation.  We agreed.  We had two each.  The food ain’t bad either – Southern-inspired down-home cookin’.

Mushroom and sausage scramble

Mushroom and sausage scramble

Lamb hash with sunny side up eggs

Lamb hash with sunny side up eggs

Bloody Mary (secret ingredient: salvation!!)

Bloody Mary (secret ingredient: salvation!!)

So I mentioned that we are in a Bloody Mary chapter in our lives, but no matter what libation we are fixated on at any one time, our standard go-to drink is a margarita.  And we found some pretty good ones at La Cocina Oaxaqueña.  They also serve food but lets be honest, Seattle isn’t very close to Mexico, is it?  The margaritas are definitely worth a visit though. Simple, basic, good.

Great margaritas at La Cocina Oaxaqueña

Great margaritas at La Cocina Oaxaqueña

OK, so I reaaaaaaaaaaally don’t eat dessert much when we vacay,  I mean, I just don’t need it. There are a million wonderful things to eat out there in the world (and even more wonderful things to drink) so why waste calories on sweet, sickly stuff that’s going to clog my arteries and fill me up (and make me feel like a pogger afterwards)?  BUT…. having said that, we just HAD to try the pie at Pie Bar.  So late one night, after a very light dinner we made our way over to the Capitol Hill bar where they serve a bunch of different sweet pies, a couple of savoury ones and a few interesting cocktails.  We ordered a piece o’ pie each, despite our better judgement and just went for it.  To wash it down, we each tried one of their Pietinis – basically a pie in a glass.  Yes, my arteries hardened just writing that sentence.  Worth trying – but definitely share the pie, we couldn’t finish either of ours.

Pietinis. 0% necessary - still had to try them.

Pietinis. 0% necessary – still had to try them.

Coconut cream pie

Coconut cream pie

Chocolate peanut butter pie

Chocolate peanut butter pie

The next day we continued on our Bloody Mary quest.  This time we tried the brunch at Lost Lake Café & Lounge – a 24 hour diner not too far from where we were staying.  It had a really great vibe, wonderful servers and a pretty tasty Mary.  Again, we had two each (I’d say it was in the interests of research, but I know you know better – I don’t want to insult you).  The breakfast was also very tasty.

Bloody Mary's at Lost Lake Diner

Bloody Mary’s at Lost Lake Diner

Condiments

Condiments

Beef hash and eggs, sunny side up

Beef hash and eggs, sunny side up

Huevos rancheros

Huevos rancheros – looks like a mess, tastes YUM!

Our trip didn’t involve just eating and drinking.  We also organised a very educational tour of a small batch local distillery.  See, we’re cultured.  Having been recommended Oola gin by a gin loving friend, we just had to check out the distillery.  Plus, those of you who know me, know that Oola is basically my middle name.  How could I NOT go and check out their spirits.  So, apart from two types of gin, they also do a few vodkas and a bourbon.  We got to taste all seven varieties of spirits (being: gin, Waitsburg barrel-finished gin, Waitsburg bourbon whisky, vodka, chilli pepper vodka, rosemary vodka and citrus vodka).  Being a small operation (they only produce 2500 bottles a month), they infuse their spirits by hand which I think gives them a really special flavour.  We loved the tour and the tasting, and I’ll leave it up to you to figure out if we bought anything from their shop at the end of the tour.

Preparing the spirit tastings

Preparing the spirit tastings

The vodka still

The vodka still

Where the infusion magic happens. All natural ingredients.

Where the infusion magic happens. All natural ingredients.

Ready to ship. They make 2500 bottles a month.

Ready to ship. They make 2500 bottles a month.

Oola front of store. Spirits were purchased.

Oola front of store. Spirits were purchased.

Last, but most certainly not least we waited in line for half an hour at Salumi Artisan Cured Meats.  Granted, you might not want to wait half an hour for a sandwich when you’re hung over, but I will tell you right now, it’s an investment worth waiting for.  The benefits FAR outweigh the costs on this one.  The meats here are all cured in the shop by old school Italianos.  In fact, it’s one of Anthony Bourdain’s favourite shops whenever he’s in Seattle.  And I’ll tell you why.  They don’t do a lot, but what they do is just amazing.  Truly delicious, incredible quality sandwiches that just hit the spot.  We had a salami and fresh mozzarella, and one of their specialities – slow cooked porchetta, which is basically fatty, moist boneless pork roasted with stuffing over hot coals for hours until the meat just melts in your mouth. It’s something that needs to be experienced to be understood.  Must do, if you’re in Seattle.

Waiting in line at Salumi

Waiting in line at Salumi

The menu. Very basic but very fucking delicious.

The menu. Very basic but very fucking delicious.

Each sandwich is hand made to order.

Each sandwich is hand made to order.

Their home made salami ciabatta sandwich with fresh mozzarella.

Their home made salami ciabatta sandwich with fresh mozzarella.

Slow cooked porchetta sandwich with lots of juicy gravy in a baguette. Messy as hell to eat, but just blissful.

Slow cooked porchetta sandwich with lots of juicy gravy in a baguette. Messy as hell to eat, but just blissful.

So, some of you eagle-eyed readers out there might be wondering if this month’s ejo is being published late.  I am currently in Novato, California where the time is 11.30pm.  It might be September where you are, but it’s still August here bitches!!!!

Ejo #68 – Drunk In….. Budapest

It’s been a few months since I popped my “Drunk In…..” series cherry in Tokyo and it’s about time to bring you the next edition.  This time we get tipsy in Budapest – an excellent city to continue the series.

If you have the means (and you do - it's extremely reasonably priced), I recommend you get your ass to the Danube Symphony Orchestra.

If you have the means (and you do – it’s extremely reasonably priced), I recommend you get your ass to the Danube Symphony Orchestra.

Budapest is a very old city bursting with youthful exuberance.  It is a most charming blend of classic (architecture, culture) and contemporary (street art, night life).  So whilst David and I most definitely delighted in a healthy dose of cultivated entertainment (Danube Symphony Orchestra, yo!), we also really enjoyed the more down to earth, rustic pleasures the city had to offer.  And those consisted mostly of something called ruin bars (or ruin pubs).

A ruin bar is what it says on the label.  It’s a bar set in a ruin (of which the city boasts many). Essentially, they are derelict buildings converted into watering holes.  It is the diametric opposite of the type of bar that blooms in Dubai, where everything has to be huge, shiny, new, glistening and glamorous.  These ruin bars revel in being as crude, rudimentary, homespun, makeshift and DIY as possible.  They are outfitted with various bric-a-brac, found objects and second hand stuff.  They are a tonic to my soul.

The very first ruin bar was Szimpla Kert (kert means garden in Hungarian).  Rather than allow the demolition of an abandoned building back in 2001, a group of entrepreneurial, young, free thinkers managed to convince the city to leave the vestige standing and allow them to open up a bar/open air cinema which they outfitted with whatever furniture they could find. It stands today, not only as a monument to the progressive and tolerant ways of this European city, but as an inspiration for an entire subculture of taverns that remain unique to Budapest. Why allow these abandoned buildings, relics of a painful past, to stand empty? Why spend money to demolish them, simply to build new, garish constructions?  And why not allow their historic bones to be fleshed out with the spirited liveliness of youth and enthusiasm.  Why not, indeed?

We tried several ruin bars and these are our favourites.

Mika Kert
This was the least well known but our very favourite kert.  It was ultra relaxed – an unkempt dive-bar in a back yard, strung with fairy lights and odd garden furniture (including a boat!!!). One of this place’s strong points is that they make VERY strong, cheap drinks. There is a nightclub attached to it but we just went to the beer garden, which was great. Very relaxed.

Amazing street out looks over this relaxed bar.

Amazing street art looks over this relaxed bar.

OK, so we got the strongest drink on the block (Long Island Ice Tea), but I have never seen it served like this.  That is pretty well just spirits (five of 'em) and a dash of coke for propriety.

OK, so we got the strongest drink on the block (Long Island Ice Tea), but I have never seen it served like this. It’s pretty well just spirits (five of ’em) and a dash of coke for propriety.

Anker’T
This place can apparently get super busy on weekends and late at night but we went in the afternoons and it was very chilled out.  It was another favourite because again, it was very easy going and laid back and it was literally a five minute walk from our house.  Always service with a smile (not something you get at all the ruin bars – I’m looking at you Szimpla!!!) and again, super cheap.

Anker'T

Anker’T

Look for the big A.

Look for the big A.

Inside the courtyard.

Inside the courtyard.  Notice the “ruin” setting.

Grandio Bar
This great ruin bar is part of a hostel complex – so there are always backpackers slouching around, but that’s cool.  The wonderful, thing about this bar is the gorgeous garden.  It feels like a real escape into a garden of Eden (where they just happen to serve cheap drinks).  It’s a wonderful place to spend a few hours reading a book and enjoying the chirping of the birds while drinking $2 beers.

Grandio's beautiful garden.

Grandio’s beautiful garden.

So, apart from ruin pubs there are also a few other types of drinking establishments.  Two of our favourites are both very nice, and very different.  The first is a craft beer bar and the second a high end cocktail mixology den.

Kandallo Artisinal Pub
Budapest is renowned for its cheap beer (and seriously, it’s fucking cheap) but this place serves not just cheap beer, but artisinally made craft beer, along with the kind of food that is perfect for soaking up an afternoon of being drunk in Budapest.  Wonderful chicken wings and an assortment of burgers.  If you’re feeling game, try the cherry beer (it’s a unique flavour, popular in Hungary).

List of craft beers (you may need someone to translate for you - or.... just point to one and hope you like it)

List of craft beers (you may need someone to translate for you – or…. do what we did and just point to one and hope you like it)

Yep!  Cherry beer is EXACTLY what we wanted.

Yep! Cherry beer is EXACTLY what we wanted.

Spicy chicken wings hit the spot (as did the accompanying, thick-cut roast potato).

Spicy chicken wings hit the spot (as did the accompanying, thick-cut roast potato).

Pulled pork burger with yummy coleslaw.  Perfect end to a night trawling the ruin bars of Budapest.

Pulled pork burger with yummy coleslaw. Perfect end to a night trawling the ruin bars of Budapest.

Bar Pharma
AMAZING cocktails. Very intricate recipes and exotic ingredients – high end mixology.  The first night we went, we managed to sneak in, just as they were preparing to close (the owner/manager was sweet talking a young lady who was sitting on a stool in the corner of the bar and I think we interrupted his smooth moves).  The second night, we were greeted like old friends.  This place is not for everyone, but for the travelling drinker that appreciates fine cocktails, you will find a home at Bar Pharma.

Bar Pharma is the place to go for precisely measured concoctions that will tickle your finer sensibilities.  Go at the start of the evening, rather than the end.  You'll appreciate the art of the drink better.

Bar Pharma is the place to go for precisely measured concoctions that will tickle your finer sensibilities. Go at the start of the evening, rather than the end. You’ll appreciate the art of the drink better.

Having studied chemistry at high school and university, there is something very appealing to me about a bar that takes it's ethos from the lab.

Having studied chemistry at high school and university, there is something very appealing to me about a bar that takes it’s ethos from the lab.

Cocktail 1

Cocktail 1

Cocktail 2

Cocktail 2

Cocktail 3 (yes, that is a popcorn rim)

Cocktail 3 (yes, that is a popcorn rim)

Cocktail 4

Cocktail 4

Cocktail 5

Cocktail 5

Eat & Meet
Not necessarily adjunct to the drinking experience of Budapest, but most certainly one that I would highly recommend anyway, is an interesting pop-up restaurant called Eat & Meet (which is a godawful name, but a really wonderful concept).  Suzie, a young Hungarian woman with a love of food, entrepreneurial spirit and pride for her city, hosts up to ten guests at a time for dinner in her parent’s apartment.  Suzie’s parents serve up delicious, home-made Hungarian food and local wines while Suzie sits at the table and entertains.  It’s a truly unique experience and one that I’d highly recommend.  If you are interested, Suzie also does foodie tours of the city.

The view from the apartment.

View of the Danube from Suzie’s parents’ apartment.

Dessert - chocolate cake with cherry filling.  Divine.

I was too busy enjoying the food and chatting with other guests to take photos of the three other courses.  Suffice to say I had seconds of the main dish.  Here is dessert – chocolate cake with cherry filling. Divine.

Retro Bufe Langos
Langos is a typical Hungarian snack of fried bread (oh yeah, baby, I said fried bread!!!!) topped with various ingredients. Hungarians eat it with just cream cheese and cheese, but other offerings are available too.  This is very, very naughty food – but soooooooooooo good.  I’d say this particular langos shop is the best one in Budapest (going from my research and how damn delicious it was!!!).

Menu

Menu

Hungarian style (plus fried, crispy onion - which I can never say not to if it's offered to me)

Hungarian style (plus fried, crispy onion – which I simply can’t refuse, if it’s on offer)

And, coz I like my onion, Hungarian style (cream cheese and cheese) but with a topping of fresh onion.

And, coz I like my onion, Hungarian sausage langos: cream cheese and cheese, fresh onion and Hungarian sausage.  Mmmmmm!  Wash it all down with a refreshing Hungarian brew.

My Little Melbourne
Anyone who’s ever been drunk anywhere knows how important coffee is the next day.  My regular readers will know how much I love coffee (and how I despair at the crap coffee found in Dubai). So whenever we travel I compile a list of the “best” places to get coffee and we make an effort to try all of them before settling on a favourite.  For me, My Little Melbourne was the best coffee in Budapest, hands down.  Espresso Embassy is supposedly ranked up there, but it tasted like they made the coffee with long life milk (which is unacceptable to me). The owners of My Little Melbourne aren’t actually Melburnians but a Hungarian couple who went to Melbourne on a vacation and loved the coffee so much, they brought the style and ethos back to Budapest.  They do perfect lattes and flat whites.

My Little Melbourne serving (what I think is) the best coffee in Budapest.

My Little Melbourne serving (what I think is) the best coffee in Budapest.

Look at that froth.  Cappuccino perfection.

Look at that froth. Cappuccino perfection.